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 ADVANCED
Sundown Ledge--Main Cliff
Routes Sorted
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Agent Orange 
Agronaut, The 
Banana Head 
Bete Noir 
Big Papa 
Big Rip, The 
Confederacy of Dunces 
Dance Connection 
Dikenstein 
End of the Tether 
Eyeless in Gaza 
Frigid Relations 
Mithras 
Pastryworks 
Promised Land, The 
Razor Crack 
Romper Room 
Rough Boys 
Sewer Rat  
Shadowline 
She's Crafty 
Stiletto 
Sundog Delight  
Tar and Feather 
Tits Out for the Lads 
Vanishing Point 
Vultures 
Yellow Matter Custard 

The Big Rip 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Ray Rice, 2008
Page Views: 1,626
Submitted By: Jay Knower on Feb 28, 2009
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The Big Rip.

Description 

A new addition last year, The Big Rip is an adventurous journey up one of the more neglected sections of Sundown's main wall. This wall is home to Banana Head (and its extension, Big Banana, a notorious route that once sported a bolt-on gym hold). These routes climb up the left and steepest part of the wall, as The Big Rip skirts the major steepness by following a discontinuous right-angling crack system.

Expect funky, physical climbing for the entire length of the wall. While many of Sundown's routes suffer from flat-edge sameness, The Big Rip is a welcome change by offering tenuous laybacks, funky jugs, and surprisingly hard mantles.

Attention: While the route is mostly bolted, a #1 Camalot is necessary between the first and second bolts. About halfway up, .4 and .5 Camalots take the sting out of a runout.


Location 

Right of Banana Head.


Protection 

Bolts. Mid sized cams (.4 to 1 Camalot) are necessary.



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By CCliffe
May 18, 2011

sorta awkward and funky but a great intro to the 12 grade. great holds the whole way and good rests. overall i thought it wuz a great route. stays dry even after a week of rain, although the 'crux' hold wuz damp but still very doable

By burlap submariner
Oct 27, 2011

very cool route. takes a variety of different techniques in bizarre but interesting movement to get to the chains, and they are tricky as hell to clip/