|Sundown Ledge--Main Cliff
A new addition last year, The Big Rip is an adventurous journey up one of the more neglected sections of Sundown's main wall. This wall is home to Banana Head (and its extension, Big Banana, a notorious route that once sported a bolt-on gym hold). These routes climb up the left and steepest part of the wall, as The Big Rip skirts the major steepness by following a discontinuous right-angling crack system.
Expect funky, physical climbing for the entire length of the wall. While many of Sundown's routes suffer from flat-edge sameness, The Big Rip is a welcome change by offering tenuous laybacks, funky jugs, and surprisingly hard mantles.
Attention: While the route is mostly bolted, a #1 Camalot is necessary between the first and second bolts. About halfway up, .4 and .5 Camalots take the sting out of a runout.
Right of Banana Head.
Bolts. Mid sized cams (.4 to 1 Camalot) are necessary.
May 18, 2011
sorta awkward and funky but a great intro to the 12 grade. great holds the whole way and good rests. overall i thought it wuz a great route. stays dry even after a week of rain, although the 'crux' hold wuz damp but still very doable
|By burlap submariner|
Oct 27, 2011
very cool route. takes a variety of different techniques in bizarre but interesting movement to get to the chains, and they are tricky as hell to clip/