The Big Pucker
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BETA PHOTO: The Big Pucker from down below. The first bolt is...
This route is the second bolted line right of Portent, and is easily indetified because the first bolt is about 35 feet off the ground.
Climb up to a 5.10a angled crack that leads to the first bolt using some not so tough, but burly jams. After the first bolt a secondary piece of protection should be placed in the crack before ascending a small 5.10c/d roof move that moves to hidden holds. Missing this move is NOT fun (my shoulder still hurts, I scared the hell out of some hikers when Jared let me down bleeding profusely) due to the slab that sits below this move.
After the first roof, climb up past two more bolts and a balancy 5.10c section that's easier if you're tall. Once over the top the climb is quite runout, but the climbing is only 5.2 as you move up and right to the top anchors, which are shared with The Wet Kiss (5.9).
Mixed Route. 3 bolts, with supplimental 1,5-3" pro and some slings needed in two sections.
Almost, but not quite... :)
Sep 24, 2013
This shares an anchor with, and is a nice toprope after leading the easier 5.9 The Wet Kiss.
By Simon W
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Feb 1, 2015
Falling on the bolt below the mantle move would definitely blow, but if you place gear in the horizontal under the roof the fall would be a little less crappy, but still require pretty agile body positioning on the way down.
The move itself is highly beta intensive.. Knowing where the holds are drops the difficulty significantly.
By Kyle Queener
From: Monterey, California
May 3, 2015
If you place protection in the cracks, like you should, you won't find the route deserving of a R rating. A good rack is 1/2'" to 3" or purple to blue C4 camalots.