Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Garfield Crag
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Big One, The T 
Bilbo's Tunnel T 
Decsent Route  T 
Leaving the Shire T 
Mad Dog (Top roped) T 
Post Hole Alphonso T 
Sick Pup T 

The Big One 

WI5 M2

   
Type:  Trad, Mixed, Ice, Alpine, 3 pitches, 300', Grade II
Consensus: WI5 M2 [details]
FA: Bradley White , Jim Shimberg, 1987
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 741
Submitted By: bradley white on Aug 13, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
Scanned photo of Jim. All of the pitches are long.

Description 

two starts right or left ramp of mixed climbing to belay under narrow curtain pillar. Climb pillar (WI4+) move right to gear placement, move left up runnel similar to Repentance second pitch and belay at notch (4+). Climb ramp left to ledge and escape off climb or do the crux wall of thin hard technical moves to the highest exit to this climb.

Location 

Biggest ice flow area in west central side of crag. Many variations exist to the right and the left after the pillar of second pitch.

Protection 

A couple of ice screws and tri-cams and stoppers. The gear is good but it's time consuming placing it. Climb depends on weather conditions. It's a hit or miss area. I waited three years for it to be in with enough ice to climb it. Rappel down Descent Route with at least one 60m rope.


Photos of The Big One Slideshow Add Photo
The Big One didn't come in yet in this 1985, vinta...
The Big One didn't come in yet in this 1985, vinta...
Scanned photo of Jim Shimberg going up the 2nd pit...
Scanned photo of Jim Shimberg going up the 2nd pit...
Scanned photo FA with Jim.
Scanned photo FA with Jim.
Scanned photo of Jim. Pitch starts off like this a...
Scanned photo of Jim. Pitch starts off like this a...

Comments on The Big One Add Comment
Show which comments
- none yet -