The Big One
||Trad, Mixed, Ice, Alpine, 3 pitches, 300', Grade II
|Consensus: ||WI5 M2 [details]|
|FA: ||Bradley White , Jim Shimberg, 1987|
|New Route: ||Yes|
|Page Views: ||716|
|Submitted By: ||bradley white on Aug 13, 2009|
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Scanned photo of Jim. All of the pitches are long.
two starts right or left ramp of mixed climbing to belay under narrow curtain pillar. Climb pillar (WI4+) move right to gear placement, move left up runnel similar to Repentance second pitch and belay at notch (4+). Climb ramp left to ledge and escape off climb or do the crux wall of thin hard technical moves to the highest exit to this climb.
Biggest ice flow area in west central side of crag. Many variations exist to the right and the left after the pillar of second pitch.
A couple of ice screws and tri-cams and stoppers. The gear is good but it's time consuming placing it. Climb depends on weather conditions. It's a hit or miss area. I waited three years for it to be in with enough ice to climb it. Rappel down Descent Route with at least one 60m rope.
The Big One didn't come in yet in this 1985, vinta...
Scanned photo of Jim Shimberg going up the 2nd pit...
Scanned photo FA with Jim.
Scanned photo of Jim. Pitch starts off like this a...