The Big Nasty
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|RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. MORE INFO >>>|
Pitch 1 - Once at the base of the tower you have a couple options. You can start directly up the "toe" further downhill (we did and added a new 1/2 pitch to the first)or you can start around to the right (uphill and looks WAY more dicey...muddy 5.9 free climbing with minimal pro) towards the original route. Either way gets you to a ledge with the BIG horn anchor.
Pitch 2 - Climb up a little ways and get to a saddle. Traverse left to the seam that splits the tower. Belay at the slung flake and single new bolt.
Pitch 3 - Head right off the belay on #1 Peckers till you reach the ladder. Clip the bolts (way reachy) and then some A4 to a belay under the caprock.
Pitch 4 - Climb up to a big ledge.
Pitch 5 - Scramble to the top