The Big Easy
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I explored this chimney with a steep fingers to hands start finding it extremely dirty. This may be an old route, but with the amount of loose rock, dead trees, peeling flakes, bones, guano, plants and dirt I think it was unclimbed. I trundled a 2x2x3' rock out of the chimney, scrubbed and scraped lichen, peeling flakes and dug out the dirt. I think it is really fun, well the climb, not the cleaning.
Begin with overhanging finger locks to good hand jam. Keeps getting wider, fists, OW, few more hand jams, small crack on the right, mantle up on big ledge. You can either continue up chimney (5.6) or finish out on finger- hand crack on the left, maybe 10a.
just right of Sex Dysfunction 12a with bolts and left of Frigidity/ Testosterone.
Standard rack to 4". Gear anchor at top- many options, then walk north to chain rap at Life without Sex-short down climb with 60m rap, or a 70m rope reaches the ground.
By dave bingham
Oct 15, 2015
George - this sounded like a good adventure. Is this route something others will want to do?
By geoff georges
From: Seattle, Wa.
Oct 27, 2015
Hi Dave, working on a new addition? I think it is quite good. Great finger locks to hand jams, the OW is easy, chimney even easier, the left side fingers top out is more in keeping with the 5.10 grade. Looks like no one has tried it, at least not MP users.