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El Rito Traditional Area
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Big "E", The T 
Bring Me a Bucket T,S 
Cave Woman T 
Chile Verde T 
Commie Pinkos T 
El Faralito T 
Gnarly T 
Guillotine T 
Juniper Direct T 
Juniper Overhang T 
Packrat Dihedral T 
Pedernal Cracks T 
Refritos T 
Senile Superhero T 
Shiitake T 
Shoes for Industry T 
Swollen T 
Techo al Derecho T 
Weapons of Mass Construction T 

The Big "E" 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 150'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Unknown
Page Views: 1,422
Submitted By: Mark Mathis on Aug 5, 2007

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Following up the first pitch of The Big "E&qu...


P1: Classic El Rito climb and one of the best 5.7 pitches in Northern New Mexico. Climb straight up a knobby face to a small roof below the base of the right trending crack. Follow the crack until it seems logical to head on up to the belay ledge.

P2: Straight up the left facing dihedral. Alternatively, trend up and right over the blunt arete to top out at the anchors for "Juniper Overhang" and "Bring me a Bucket".


On the left side of the cliff, locate a right trending crack ~20m up above a small roof. The route starts on the knobby face directly below. Walk off to the left.


Standard Trad Rack (Set of nuts, set of cams, and slings). Additional passive pro may be useful (e.g., hexes or tri-cams). Anchor bolts are strategically placed at the top of P1 at the base of the left facing dihedral. Belay from gear at the top or from the next set of anchors to the right (if following the variation described above).

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