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PSOM Slab
Routes Sorted
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Big Deal, The T 
Breaking & Entering T 
Digi T 
High Life, The T 
John Fischer Memorial Route T,S 
Lizard Gizzards T 
PBR Street Gang T 
Polish Direct T 
Pretty New Anchor T 
PSOM Pinnacle T 
Racing Lizards T 
Same As It Never Was S 
Serious But Not Desperate T 
Silver Streak T 
Slow Ride T 
Unknown A S 
Unknown B S 
Wanted Man T 
Your Mother Was a Hamster T,S 

The Big Deal 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 4 pitches, 400'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Rick Ziegler/Austin Archer
New Route: Yes
Season: Summer shade, spring/winter/fall
Page Views: 3,836
Submitted By: rickziegler on Apr 29, 2013

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Looking down pitch 2. Todd is below the 2 roofs.

Description 

The Big Deal starts from the top of “The High Life” (5.8), which is a 35m right trending flake system located 100 feet left of "PBR Streetgang."

The Big Deal is 2/3 crack climbing and 1/3 slab and face features that connect the crack systems left of "PBR Streetgang." Clean, well protected and fun.


Location 

At the far right of PSOM Slab
APPROACH: Follow directions for PSOM Pinnacle. Continue on approach trail until at base on “The High Life.” “The High Life” starts 100 feet left of “PBR Streetgang” in a right trending flake, 5.8 (35m).


Protection 

Stoppers. Double of small to medium cams. Singles #1 - #4 Camalot.


Description 

P1 -From 2 bolt anchor atop The High Life, follow a slabby, right trending crack for 40 meters. Where crack peters out, step left into seams protected with small to med nuts lead to 2 bolt anchor. 5.7. Gear: Nuts, doubles of small to med cams, single #1-#4 Camalot.
P2- Can be broken into 2 shorter pitches or 1, 60 m pitch. From the belay stem up seams (5.8, gear and a bolt). Step right to a bolted slab move, then up left facing flake, pull over this to the right to a bolt and optional 2 bolt anchor. Move up easy but hollow flakes to a left facing corner that climbs over 2 roofs to 2 bolt anchor on right. 5.8, gear to 3.
P3- Move right into low angle fist crack, to a ledge. Follow left arching flake protected by small cams. Near top of arch step right and follow 4 bolts (5.9) to left leaning lieback protected by gear to 2 bolt anchor. 20 m.
Rappel route with 1 – 70m rope or 2 60m. The fourth rappel uses a 2 bolt anchor 30m below the P1 anchor.


Location 

At the far right of PSOM Slab
APPROACH: Follow directions for PSOM Pinnacle. Continue on approach trail until at base on “The High Life.” “The High Life” starts 100 feet left of “PBR Streetgang” in a right trending flake, 5.8 (35m).


Protection 

Stoppers. Double of small to medium cams. Singles #1 - #4 Camalot.



Photos of The Big Deal Slideshow Add Photo
Starting up pitch 2.
Starting up pitch 2.
The High Life (5.8) start.  The Big Deal starts from the top anchors of this right trending flake system.
The High Life (5.8) start. The Big Deal starts fr...
another pitch.
another pitch.
Climbing the first pitch of The Big Deal.  Right leaning , slabby crack climbing.
Climbing the first pitch of The Big Deal. Right l...
Looking down pitch 3.
Looking down pitch 3.
Starting up Pitch 2.
Starting up Pitch 2.
The Big Deal - route and belays (lead bolts and intermediate belay not shown)
BETA PHOTO: The Big Deal - route and belays (lead bolts and in...
Fun climbing on Pitch 2
Fun climbing on Pitch 2
Topo for The Big Deal (better topo to come soon)
BETA PHOTO: Topo for The Big Deal (better topo to come soon)
The beginning of Pitch 3 on The Big Deal
The beginning of Pitch 3 on The Big Deal
High up on pitch 2.
High up on pitch 2.
Looking down Pitch 3 of The Big Deal
Looking down Pitch 3 of The Big Deal
Looking up pitch 1
Looking up pitch 1
Starting up The Highlife.
Starting up The Highlife.
Looking up pitch 3
Looking up pitch 3
Looking down pitch 1.
Looking down pitch 1.
a pitch
a pitch
Pitch 1
Pitch 1
looking down the first pitch as butters makes his way up.
looking down the first pitch as butters makes his ...
Comments on The Big Deal Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated May 29, 2014
By Todd Townsend
From: Bishop, CA
May 1, 2013

Great route, destined to become a new classic of Pine Creek! Solid 5.9 friction on the last pitch.

One small correction to the route description. At the end of pitch 2 the bolted anchor is on the left, not on the right.

We took the suggested rack and felt like we could have used more hand sized pieces and fewer tiny cams. Next time, I'd probably bring a set of nuts, single #00 and #0 metolius, doubles from #1 metolius to #2 camalot, and a single #3 and #4.

All in all, good gear and clean rock. Go climb it!

By Jeff Scheuerell
May 2, 2013

Rick, glad to see you and Austin are still getting after it over there. The route looks good. I need a tour when the pass opens.

By Mr Snrub
From: Bishop, CA
May 5, 2013
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Some hollow blocks on the 2nd pitch that may come off at some point. Never the less, this thing is an instant classic. Nice addition by the Ziegler/Archer team.

By Amy W.
From: bishop,ca
May 5, 2013

Great Route! Fun crack climbing and long. Worth doing again! I'd probable bring more hand size pieces and less tiny cams next time (see Todd's comment).

Climbed it with Todd Townsend and I lead The High Life and pitch 2 of The Big Deal. I would recommend using a long runner on the bolt after the mid anchor for less rope drag. Usually intimidated by roofs, but these 2 were not that scary thanks to face holds.

By Darren Malloy
May 11, 2013

We climbed The Big Deal last weekend and had A Great Time. I would definitely recommend it as a moderate outing, or to combine with other PSOM multi-pitch for a pretty big day. A few things we thought -

- we did not think a #4 was at all necessary - there were always other options for gear. Small nuts came in very handy on P1, we had doubles and placed almost all of the small size.

- definitely link the middle pitches - bring a few extra slings if you need to make sure.

- the crux of the last pitch felt like fairly easy 5.9 friction. We were there on a cool, cloudy day, and in the hot sun it would feel a few grades harder. Like other routes on the PSOM, it might get more difficult if some of the small edges break off.

- on the first rappel, our rope got hopelessly stuck behind the top of the flake you climb up to start the last pitch. It was easy to lead up and free it, but did take a few minutes to tie into the other end, etc. The flake is well positioned to suck up a rope, but a hard pull to the right when the rope is coming through might avoid it.

By Anne Stanley
May 22, 2013
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

I did this route with Deb Leyh. We thought it was a fun moderate route. We used the suggested rack and it had everything we needed. I thought gear placements were easy to find and solid. The route offers great crack, friction and small roofs and the 5.9 friction section is well protected. A fun must do route. Cheers Rick and Austin

By old5ten
From: Berkeley + Sunny Slopes, CA
Sep 3, 2013
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

As fun as Three Hour Arete, but much easier.
P1 - long, and soooooo much fun. Seam on top actually protects pretty well with small pro, even if it doesn't look like it at first. A big cam will protect the transition from diagonal crack to seam better if you're so inclined.
P2 - the 'choss' pitch. Some loose/hollow flakes, but really fun and strangely aesthetic. The two 'roofs' are cake and I thought this pitch was easier than the first. Definitely not 5.8 in comparison to Digi or High Life. Watch rope drag (easily avoided).
P3 - the money pitch, solid 5.9, clean and fun

A couple of general notes:
-The intermediate belay on P2 is a bit superfluous and unsightly (unless you're climbing on a 50m). Three bolts (2xbelay, 1xlead) clustered really close together.
-The flake on P3 ate our rope (and we actually were aware of the problem and tried to avoid it). Not a big deal since it's fairly easy to retrieve, but something to think about.

By butters
From: Mammoth Lakes, Ca
Oct 19, 2013
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Awesome climbing! Highly reccommended! Pretty great hand cracks and some fun face moves and little roofs ,flakes and underclings.


Pitch 4: fun starting fist crack that took a #3 c4 and then cruised up more to the flake/undercling and. Placed My last piece being a #2 master cam(yellow) n continued on until the undercling became thinner right b4 the 1st of 4 bolts and lost my footing n took a nice 15ft slabber n sprained my ankle. Was able to clean the gear n walk the #3 bak to the belay and rapped down. Oh well. still had fun. Awesome climbn. Go do it! Can't wait to rebate!!

By Mikekd
From: Mammoth lakes, CA
Nov 4, 2013

Really great route!

DESCENT: As noted already above, on the first rap if you go straight down to the previous anchors your rope will get caught. There are anchors to the right, perhaps it would have been best to go over there.

#4 was not needed. I found a bomber blue Metolius TCU (#1) placement in a run out section. Bring the small stuff, doubles to BD #.75 and single 1,2,3.

By Garret Nuzzo-Jones
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Mar 9, 2014

Could probably get by without a #4. If you drag it up there you'll find a home for it though.

You can rap down with a single 70m. A 60m would not work. We rapped down the 4th pitch, then switched to the anchors on PBR Streetgang. Rapped straight down that route to the ground. Several of the raps are rope stretchers, it would be very easy to go off the end of your rope if you aren't careful.

This route is just fantastic the whole way up.

By dustinryan85
From: Bishop, CA
Apr 9, 2014
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Great route. beautiful day, no clouds, no wind. Pitch 2 was my first trad lead! and it went smoothly. Looking forward to climbing on the wall some more.

By Austin Archer
From: Bishop, Ca.
May 29, 2014

THIS ROUTE HAS ITS OWN RAPPEL STATIONS. LAST ONE IS HIDDEN UNDER A VISOR. 5 RAPS WITH A 70M ROPE.