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Diarrhea Dome - South Face
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Big Brown Eye, The T 
Explosive Diahrrea T 
Manly Dike, The T 
Svapada T 
Unsorted Routes:

The Big Brown Eye 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 200'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Dave Evans, Todd Gordon, Charles Cole and Craig Fry, February 1985
Page Views: 596
Submitted By: Randy on Jan 18, 2009

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Description 

This two pitch face and crack climb heads directly up the center of the south face of Diarrhea Dome, via discontinuous crack systems and steep thin face climbing.

Pitch 1. Begin behind a tree. Climb a hand crack up to where it ends, then make delicate face traverse left (5.10c) to another crack which ends about halfway up the face in a large oval shaped section of excellent patina. This in fact is the "Big Brown Eye." Until the belay/old bolt situation is fixed, you might want to belay here.

Note: The Bartlett Wonderland Guide suggests climbing up past the crux to the bolt on the dike, then heading down and left all the way to the bolted anchor on Manly Dike. This does not seem to be a good substitute for a decent belay on this route (and possible separate rap off).

Pitch 2. From the top of the patina, a bolt protects very thin face moves up and left (5.11a - and pretty hard at that) which lead to a dike (a hangerless button head protects getting onto the dike -- bring a wired stopper) [Q: Is this an original bolt?] and another bolt higher up. Ideally, a bolted belay should be established at this 3rd bolt.

Move up and left on run out easier face (5.9/10) to a last bolt. Now a long traverse left (5.8) to a couple crack systems and face that lead up and right to the top.


Descents: Unless you have two ropes (or perhaps a 70+ meter single), you can not get back down the south face. Instead head over to the north side of the rock and make a short (60+ feet) rap off a tree into a small canyon. From here either:
A. Tunnel under boulders in the gully and then make a 95 foot rap off the bolted anchor atop Book of Changes into the Grotto; or
B. Stay higher and downclimb steep slabs on the right side of the gully until you can drop into the Grotto.
In either event, from the Grotto, scramble out and over the south notch to return to the base.

Protection 

Many 1 to 2 inch pieces (.75 to 2+ Camalots) with a couple smaller. Draws and runners (to reduce rope drag).


Comments on The Big Brown Eye Add Comment
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By C Miller
Administrator
Jan 18, 2009
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

A really good route with an oh-so-thin crux move just past the bolt that's probably a little harder than the orignal 5.10d rating.

Can be done in a single pitch if you're mindful of rope drag and use enough runners.

It's possible to descend the north face of the formation and then onto the west face with a single rope and lots of downclimbing, but I don't recall if there were any rappels.
By C Miller
Administrator
Jan 19, 2009
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

Randy, it's good to see you upgraded this to 5.11a. The crux of this route seemed harder than Black President and almost as hard as Morality Test.

It's probably best done in a single pitch, especially with the quality of the crux bolt, so as not to have a potential huge fall so close to the belay should the bolt fail. Also, moving down and left to belay on Manly Dike as Al suggests is not ideal.
By Randy
Jan 19, 2009

Chris, I thought the crux was very hard and perhaps more difficult than some other concensus 5.11a's.

I hope to return and replace the bolts (the 1/4 buttonhead at the crux with Leeper hanger -- even though solidly placed -- does not inspire confidence).