The Big Baby
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Where's Waldo? The 11+ offwidth testpiece, Big Bab...
This line is located near the left side of the Battle of the Bulge Wall and would be hard to miss.
Start underneath a one-foot roof and climb a wide-hands crack for 15ft. to the roof. Be careful of the loose flakes inside this initial crack. Pull over the roof on fists to wide fists. Battle up the crack for another 30ft. until you can get a knee in. Work up the crack as it gradually widens to chain anchors.
I got some key beta afterwards from Vera the offwidth master, who recommended climbing the route in sticky rubber approach shoes. I had a hard time keeping my feet from slipping and I agree that approach shoes would give you that extra little width for good foot jams.
On the left end of Battle of the Bulge Wall, immediately left of Our Piece of the Real Estate.
(based on the old camalot size) #3.5, (3) #4, (3)4.5, (3) #5 camalot. New #6 Camalots are good too for the top. There's also a single piton bolt almost 1/2 way up, just before you can get your knee in the crack. FYI - The new #6 camalots are too large for the crack.
Jason Haas near the top of Big Baby
Jason Haas pulling over the crux roof on Big Baby
Sam approaching the business on Big Baby
Sam about to make short work of the crux on Big Ba...
By this point I had burned 735 calories. I am near...
I'm a Big Baby!
James Cherry on The Big Baby
Matt Brubaker aka Dean at the bottom of Big Baby s...
At the crux. Photo by Joan G. Climber: Ed from ...
Getting established over the roof. Such a rad crac...
|By Danny Inman|
Dec 6, 2006
Getting established above the roof was burley, for me it was very rattly fists. Sure one can lay it back, but why deprive yourself? As my first "real" desert offwidth, I learned a lot on this thing. Very different technique required than other offwidths that I have done. Suffice to say, my hip flexors and abs got a full workout. I will return after my technique improves. Also, as stated in the description, the new BD #6 definitely does not fit here.
|By Steven Lucarelli|
From: Moab, UT
Nov 26, 2007
This is a great route and a real test of your offwidth skills. If your hands are to small to get fists over the roof then your in for some real trouble. After fighting your way past the pin you should be able to get your knee in and finally rest (kind of). Have fun.
|By Greg Cameron|
Apr 3, 2008
I went up there with just two new No. 5s (Camalots) and was wishing I had a No. 6 for the last 10-15 feet. Those No. 5s were tipped out for much of the last part. I have a hard time believing that a No. 6 would not fit up there.
This is a hard and interesting route requiring multiple OW techniques.
|By Bart Paull|
From: Boulder, CO
Oct 23, 2008
The gear beta for the route isn't totally correct. You can easily fit a #6 Wild Country Friend or new #6 Camalot in the crack for about half the route. If you only have old #5 Camalots they will be very tipped out. I would recommend two #6 Friends or Camalots. You can also use #2 Bigbros for much of the route, and there are a few spots where a #3 Bigbro will work.
Oct 24, 2008
yeah, when i did it a 6 friend was useful for a lot of the upper half, particularly the last stretch to the anchors. definitely worth bringing. i thought the crux was the roof. i had heard it was fists, but it was off fists for me and required a change in plan-of-attack.
|By Jonas Wiklund|
Nov 8, 2008
I agree with the guys above, two WC#6 or new camalot #6 are nice to have. The guidebook seems to have given bad presendence on giving detailed gear-beta for routes obviously not done by the author.
|By A. Wolaver|
From: Golden, CO
Dec 4, 2009
One of the coolest desert OWs ever. I'm not sure why the pin remains on this climb. Not only does it mar the climb aesthetically, but it often causes the rope to run a little odd considering the gear is deep and the pin is about 1.5' outside of the crack. Don't clip it!
Dec 4, 2009
i actually kind of find the pin handy, as it pulls the rope out of the way for a little while. curious that it is there though, maybe the FA party didn't have much for wide gear. if i remember correctly, the pin comes before you can get your knee in, so drilling it on lead must have been exciting.