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Shortoff Mountain
Routes Sorted
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Appalachain Chuffer 
Appalachain Runt 
Between The Lines 
Big Arete, The 
Bonsai 
Built to Tilt 
Change Up 
Comfortably Numb 
Construction Job 
Dancing Outlaw, The 
Desp-arete 
Dopey Duck 
Early Times 
Energizer 
Enterprise, The 
False Paradise 
Finders Keepers 
Fly By 
Footloose 
For The Birds 
Full Tilt Boogie 
Golden Rule 
Help Mr. Wizard 
Humdinger 
Julia 
Just Another Pretty Face 
Last Straw, The 
Learning to fly 
Little Corner 
Lost and Found 
Made in the shade 
Maginot Line 
Maginot Roof 
Paradise Alley 
Paradise City 
Paradise Lost 
Pinball Wizard 
Saddle Up 
Sleight of Hand 
Stopperhead Arete 
Straight and Narrow 
Supercrack  
Trick Or Treat 
Turn and Burn 
Twist of fate 
White Corner 
White Russians Gone Bananas 
Unsorted Routes:

The Big Arete 

YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- British: E4 5c

   
Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 300'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- British: E4 5c [details]
FA: Big Arete~ Nathan Brown 2009 (rope solo) Original Tall Order (last pitch) ~ Doug Sword, Nathan Brown spring 2005
New Route: Yes
Season: fall & spring are best, but it gets AM and late afternoon shade
Page Views: 1,788
Submitted By: nbrown on Jun 11, 2009
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BETA PHOTO: The red is the original "Tall Order". The green i...
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  • Description 

    This is a direct route up the arete feature from the ground to the top. The exposed last pitch follows part of the older route "Tall Order", and is one of my personal all time favorites. An alternate pitch one is to climb "Help Mr Wizard" to the large ledge about 190' up.

    P-1 5.11 Start underneath the arete of The "Big Corner", and below the left end of the block/ledge feature where "Armed Robbery" starts. Climb easy terrain to a short grungy chimney (extreme left side of "block") which leads to a 3 bolt line. Crank through this wild crux to better holds that eventually lead onto a pumpy 5.9ish face/arete. Continue up this to the large ledge about 170' up. Pro: #1 camelot down to #00 TCU's. Extra green & yellow alien sized pieces useful.

    P-2 5.8 Move out right and pull an overlap to the vertical wall with a seam. Wander up and out onto the arete before moving back left to gain a nice ledge and a 2 bolt anchor. It is 190' down from here, not that you'd actually wanna go down...

    P-3 5.10+? Move back over to the arete to gain a sloping ledge and a large block feature. Climb the left side of this feature to the short section of rotten rock that gains a small ledge atop the block. (Note: The original route comes in from the right and climbs the right side of this block). Clip bolt (pay attention to potential rope drag here) and start up into some of the best and most exposed climbing around. Keep your eyes peeled for a tricky shallow horizontal nut placement just above the last cruxy roof feature. This helps take the sting out of the funky mantel move, but is not neccessary and was not found originally during the FA. Continue up steep but more moderate climbing to the top.


    Location 

    Starts just around the corner from "Help Mr Wizard" and climbs the large arete left of the "Big Corner".


    Protection 

    Standard shortoff rack. Extra slings usefull on last pitch. Maybe an extra 2 inch piece as well.



    Photos of The Big Arete Slideshow Add Photo
    Bruce near the top of pitch 1.  Photo taken by Zachary from Straight And Narrow.
    Bruce near the top of pitch 1. Photo taken by Zac...
    Bruce high on pitch one.  Photo credits go to Zachary.
    Bruce high on pitch one. Photo credits go to Zach...
    Bruce leading pitch 1.  Photo credits got to Zachary.
    Bruce leading pitch 1. Photo credits got to Zacha...
    Comments on The Big Arete Add Comment
    Show which comments
    By Ben Sachs
    Jun 12, 2009

    This looks rad, thanks for posting.

    By sean barb
    From: winston salem, north carolina,
    Aug 15, 2011

    funky mantle move is right!

    By nbrown
    From: western NC
    Nov 18, 2011

    Glad you liked it Sean.