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The Best Steep Juggy U.S. Area



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By Rick Shull
Administrator
From Arcata, CA & Dyer,NV
Aug 10, 2007
Grip strength training, Nevada style.

Let's hear it. What area in the U.S. do you recommend for the biggest concentration of thuggy, big-move routes. No crimps, just straight up, keep it movin' or pump out kind of stuff.


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By Eddie Avallone
From Lewisburg, WV
Aug 10, 2007

The Red River Gorge, hands down. Thousands of jug hauls.


FLAG
By ropeless420
From evergreen , co.
Aug 10, 2007

priest draw in flagstaff az. just steep powerful pocket pullin.


FLAG
By saxfiend
Administrator
From Decatur, GA
Aug 10, 2007
Relaxing at the P1 belay of Fruit Loops at Rumbling Bald.

rickd wrote:
Stone Mountain NC?

hahaha!!

JL


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By Sam Lightner, Jr.
Aug 10, 2007
The Shield

Maple.


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By Brian in SLC
From Salt Lake City, UT
Aug 10, 2007
Climbing in Smuggler's Notch

rickd wrote:
Stone Mountain NC?


That's funny. But, how 'bout Moores Wall?

I'd ditto RRG. HCR in Arkansas too.


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By Dave-o
From Boulder,CO
Aug 10, 2007

Rifle Colorado


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By James Beissel
From Boulder, CO
Aug 10, 2007
Ghostride da whip!

Undoubtedly the Red River Gorge.


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By Jeff Mekolites
From HOTlanta, GA
Aug 10, 2007
Heading to the top of the Grand for the second time in 2 days!

Red River Gorge..."the biggest holds you'll ever fall off of"


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By Brian in SLC
From Salt Lake City, UT
Aug 10, 2007
Climbing in Smuggler's Notch

Jeff Mekolites wrote:
Red River Gorge..."the biggest holds you'll ever fall off of"


Yep.

One move wonder on Creature Feature.  Great route!
One move wonder on Creature Feature. Great route!
Submitted By: Brian in SLC on Aug 10, 2007


Matt gets some on Creep Show.
Matt gets some on Creep Show.
Submitted By: Brian in SLC on Aug 10, 2007


Keith on the Re-animator.  Steep start!
Keith on the Re-animator. Steep start!
Submitted By: Brian in SLC on Aug 10, 2007


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By Ladd Raine
Administrator
From Plymouth, NH
Aug 13, 2007
Waiting for lift-off, Thin Air(5.6) Cathedral Ledge, NH

Red River Gorge, no doubt.

Steep, pocketed jug haul abound...
Steep, pocketed jug haul abound...
Submitted By: Ladd Raine on Aug 13, 2007


Nuria taking one of the cleanest falls ever
Nuria taking one of the cleanest falls ever
Submitted By: Ladd Raine on Aug 13, 2007


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By Ladd Raine
Administrator
From Plymouth, NH
Aug 13, 2007
Waiting for lift-off, Thin Air(5.6) Cathedral Ledge, NH

ropeless420 wrote:
priest draw in flagstaff az. just steep powerful pocket pullin.




Making moves
Making moves
Submitted By: Ladd Raine on Jun 1, 2007


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By Nick Stayner
From The Magic City
Aug 13, 2007
Nick Stayner near the crux. Ryan Minton photo.

For trad climbing:
Hawksbill Mountain, NC
Shortoff Mountain, NC
Gargantuon horizontals every few feet!

No pics, maybe somebody else can post them up?


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By Tico
Aug 13, 2007

I'm kind of surprised nobody's mentioned the Gunks, although routes there tend to be at about 5.10, and not too many jugs on the .11's. Still, not too many places where you can have overhanging 5.4.


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By scoTt Millbern
From Langenfeld, Germany
Aug 13, 2007
second below of collage dropout, 3rd Flatiron

Nick Stayner wrote:
For trad climbing: Hawksbill Mountain, NC Shortoff Mountain, NC Gargantuon horizontals every few feet! No pics, maybe somebody else can post them up?


Hawksbill eh? Hmm.. how is it climbing there this time of year? Heading to Table Rock this weekend, might have to make a stop.

Is there anything in the 5.8-5.9 range there? Current book shows little (not surprisingly)


I have been really jonesing for the sweet jugs of Stone Mtn, but persons better than me have been keeping me away this summer. Can't wait till cooler weather!

scoTt


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By Nick Stayner
From The Magic City
Aug 13, 2007
Nick Stayner near the crux. Ryan Minton photo.

Not much in the 5.8/9 range at Hawksbill. It does have a nice northern exposure, so the temps are doable this time of year.


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By JacobD
From Flagstaff, AZ
Aug 13, 2007
Me on Half Dome Boulder, Middle Finger of Fury <br /> <br />Awesome problem!

Dierkies lake in Idaho, supposedly has the steepest 5.10 in the country


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