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Choss Garden
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Beata S 
Benefactor, The S 
Black Dynamite S 
Bridge to Total Freedom, The S 
Daisy S 
Depth of Field S 
Garden Party S 
Gardener, The S 
Mellow Gold S 
Nettle S 
Pitbulls on Crack S 
Touchy Subject S 
Touchy Tuco S 
Tuco's Nettle S 
Up in Arms S 

The Benefactor 

YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 55'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b [details]
FA: Bret and Stuart Ruckman, 1990
Page Views: 1,143
Submitted By: John Steiger on Sep 4, 2011

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (9)
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Description 

Classic name, great line, quality climbing (so what if it’s short). The Benefactor takes an attractive, brown patina-looking swath up the center of the Garden. More pumpy than technical or powerful, this route might be considered a soft 12b by some, but I’ll stick with the rating given by the first ascensionists. Lowering off the anchors leaves the climber a good 15 feet out from the base of the route. This may be the best 12b in BCC, better than Savage Dance, which gets 3 out of 3 stars in the Ruckmans' guide.

Location 

Between Mellow Gold to the left and Up in Arms to the right. Look for two bolts leading to an undercling flake, with the patina-like section above.

Protection 

Draws. Descent is from fixed ‘biners on slings tied around a tree (a good candidate for new bolts and chains).


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By Spencer Weiler
From: Salt Lake city
May 8, 2012

My only complaint is the bad belay stance at the base of this one. All the other routes have nice flat stances with a belay bolt.
By Tim G.
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Oct 20, 2014

Great climb. Pretty consistent, hard climbing from the beginning. You get a slight rest at a good undercling, but you are barely off the ground at that point.

I agree about the belay stance. Really steep on slick quartzite. It would be nice to have a belayers bolt right at the bottom to go in direct with. I felt like I might fall and pull my climber down with me at any moment. Next time I might bring some trad gear to setup a belay anchor.

Also chains at the top would be nice. The cord that was up there looked like it had been baking in the sun all season. Someone left a draw on the last bolt which I also left to give me a little more peace of mind while lowering.
By skiandclimb
Sep 23, 2015

There is now a belay bolt to protect the belayer on the exposed ledge.
There is also a new 2 bolt anchor at the top instead of the shitty old slings around the tree. Not sure why this route never had its own anchor???
By steve edwards
From: SLC, UT
4 days ago

Thanks for the upgrades. Definitely needed. Great route.

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