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Routes Sorted
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Bendix Claws, The 
Continuum 
Disappearing Act 
Games Without Frontiers 
Hang 'Em High 
Invisibility Lessons 
Invisible Touch 
Sandblast 
Therapeutic Tyranny 

The Bendix Claws 

5.11a

   
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Type: Trad, 1 pitch, 80 feet
Consensus: 5.11- [details]
FA: Mike Lechlinski & Eric Eriksson, March 1986
Submitted By: C Miller on Jan 1, 2005

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (37)
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BETA PHOTO: Crux face moves before entering the crack system o...

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Description 

The moves past the bolt (5.11a) are technical and cruxy and while the crack above isn't terribly difficult (5.10+), hanging out too long to place gear could take it's toll. Descend by walking off to the climber's left.

Yet another great crack on the Future Games Wall, and one that's perfect after warming up on the easier climbs on the wall. Three stars out of five.


Location 

This great route is located 35' left of Continuum, and is easily identified by a single bolt leading into a steep, thin crack.


Protection 

bolt (3/8"), pro to 2.5" (wires work well)



Photos of The Bendix Claws Slideshow Add Photo
Chis working Bendix Claws while I take the the easier lead of Continuum. Camera Phone shot by Jingy

Chis working Bendix Claws while I take the the eas...

At the second crux on the redpoint of Bendix Claws.  Photo by Dominic.

At the second crux on the redpoint of Bendix Claws...

Dave kicking in the turbo on Bendix.

Dave kicking in the turbo on Bendix.


Comments on The Bendix Claws Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Nov 16, 2012
By M.Morley
Administrator
From: Sacramento, CA
Dec 3, 2002

It's easy to throw a toprope on this one if you're not quite up for leading it. Just scramble up and left (see descent). A few hand-size pieces and a cordalette should be enough.

By Steve Juhasz
Mar 13, 2003

Dicey pro and high quality climbing, better be sure you can on-sight route of this grade before attempting this one as a ground-up lead. Eases up near the top as the crack widens. No fixed anchor on top.

By Josh Beck
Mar 26, 2003
rating: 5.11b

This is one of the best routes I've done in jtree in a long time, but I also think it's the hardest ".11a" I've been on out there. As hard for me as Hot Rocks, and definitely harder than Left Ski Track or Red Snapper (just chose those routes because they're the most comparably graded routes I've been on recently). I'd call it .11b, but that's just my opinion and I probably missed something...

By Mark J Gain
Aug 13, 2004
rating: 5.11b

I agree with the last comment, a great route but just as hard as many of the 5.11b/c's I have climbed in Josh. Pro is funky after bottom bolt but then is good to the top. A real pumper!

By Locker
From: Westminster, CO
Oct 3, 2004
rating: 5.11a

this is a beauty for sure. Moving past the bolt was great and difficult for my average height self. Bit I highly recommend this one when in the area. Cool moves. I might lean more towards 5.11b also. But perhaps it is just a height thing.

By Brandt Allen
From: Joshua Tree, Cal
Apr 25, 2005
rating: 5.11a

What Chris said. The bottom face move requires a little finesse footwork, while the upper crack has very positive jams but is rather sustained. Easy for 5.11, one face move.

By tom donnelly
Nov 8, 2005
rating: 5.11a

I toproped it thinking it would be hard and it felt so good that I then led it. Could rate it 10d.

By Adam Stackhouse
Administrator
Feb 18, 2006
rating: 5.11a

TR'd it, with the tech crux coming just past the bolt. A reachy right-hand fist-type jam in a flair was the key to bringing my feet up. After that, sustained, steep crack holds all the way to the top, About 3 stars out of 5

By Bill Olszewski
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Apr 8, 2007

Never led it and never will, just struggled my way through on TR. But this is fantastic, strenuous climbing on a beautiful aesthetic line!

By Manjushri
From: Las Vegas, NV
Oct 22, 2007
rating: 5.11a/b

Well worth the effort, fun and challenging climbing I truly enjoyed. Do not be deterred by the gear - it takes competence and confidence to place, but for a 5.11 leader it is not incredibly difficult to be safe.

By Darshan Ahluwalia
From: Petaluma, CA
Nov 11, 2007

attempted onsight. past the crux, i fell while trying to clip my first piece after the bolt (blue metolious). i had a bunch of slack out, i almost decked! finished the climb right after w/ no falls. >:0

great climb. four of five stars

darshan

By MJW
From: Boise, ID
May 4, 2008

Outstanding route with loads of good gear. Mostly TCU's and wired's. I was greeted at the top by a giant Chuckwalla 3 feet from my head whilst zoning out at the belay!! I found it barely 11a. Good route for a 5.10 leader to take a stab at.

By Drewsky
Dec 27, 2008

Great route. If you're under 5'9" it's a little harder to place the next good piece after the bolt. I'm not sure I would recommend this as a first 5.11 lead, but it is relatively safe. I also hung out with a large lizard while belaying on the top. Perhaps it was one of the aforementioned chuckwallas?

By Michael Ybarra
From: on the road
Apr 29, 2009

I thought the crack was harder (or at least more serious) than the face moves. There's gear but it can be a little tricky and run and the stances aren't great in the middle of the route. There's a Thank God rest at the end of the sustained crack difficulties that I didn't find until after a whip on a small nut.

By avk
Jun 25, 2009

yeah, for an under 5'9 climber like me, I would recommend bringing a black alien. I didn't bring one and shoved in a blue alien and a grey metolius in the first reachable slot after the bolt but I think both would pull if I fell since they weren't sinkers. Felt much better after making one more move and placed a better one above it. The rest of the gear are pretty good.

By caughtinside
From: Oakland CA
Mar 23, 2011

delicate, techy, sequential and sustained, brilliant route.

By Jack Kearney
Nov 16, 2012

just a note, the picture in the joshua tree classics book has this route totally wrong, it shows the line heading way right across the face. Had me confused for a minute.