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 ADVANCED
Jimmy Cliff
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Alcove Crack T 
Beginning of All Things, The S 
Clip a Dee Doo Dah S 
Cracker Cracks T 
Curl Up and Fly S 
Drilling for Dollars S 
Easter Squall S 
Hammond Organ S 
Hypocrisy S 
Jimmy Crack Corn T 
Junco S 
Lady and the Tramp S 
Lonesome Dove S 
Love Nest T,TR 
Nuthatch, The S 
Piece of Cake S 
Pine Tree Crack T 
Scare Crow T 
Searchers, The T 
Standard Route T 
Stool Pigeon T 
Teacherís Pet S 
Things as They Are S 
Things As They Are Now S 
Things I Never Learned S 
Things You Should Have Learned in Kindergarten S 
To Love, Honor and Belay S 
When Pigs Fly T 

The Beginning of All Things 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: D. Quinn
Page Views: 2,065
Submitted By: James Otey on Jul 1, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (64)
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The crux for me is right around here... looks like...

Description 

The Beginning of All Things climbs the arete on the steep section of Jimmy Cliff left. It traverses up and right, past the anchor of Things As They Are Now and ends to the right at the chains of Things As They Are.

Many people consider this route to be quite contrived- and it is. Though not the most logical or eye pleasing line on Jimmy Cliff left, The Beginning of All Things makes for a great warm up for some of the crags harder offerings. For 5.10a it can seem quite pumpy, though there is a great rest soon before the chains of things as they are now. Right after this rest comes the crux- the feet get a little thin though precise footwork should pull you through it just fine.

It is worthwhile to note that The Beginning of All Things is also useful for hanging draws on Things as they are now (5.12a).

Is this the most wonderful 5.10 at Rumney? Absolutely not.
But it it worth your time?
Definitely.

Location 

Starts on the far left side of the steep wall on Jimmy Cliff left.

Protection 

7 bolts to chains of Things As They Are.


Photos of The Beginning of All Things Slideshow Add Photo
Lily eyes the anchor...
Lily eyes the anchor...
Lily starts up with rachet on belay...
Lily starts up with rachet on belay...
Im not too in to clipping pics but i like this one...
Im not too in to clipping pics but i like this one...

Comments on The Beginning of All Things Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Feb 27, 2014
By matthewWallace
From: plymouth, nh
Nov 29, 2008

i broke a foot off a few moves into this route if it makes it harder i don't know but i thought people should know.
By epoch
From: Maine
Jun 30, 2009

I broke off a head-sized flake just right of the Things as They Are Now anchors on June 29, 2009; though it shouldn't affect the nature of the route.
By Jcomeau
From: Hopkinton, MA
Jul 7, 2009

Where are the top anchors for this one? The line next to it or the one to the right of that?
By Mike Thompson
From: Manchester NH
Jul 9, 2009

hello Jcomeau, :) the anchors for this are the same for the line just to the right of this one (things as they are now 5.12a) :) if you look at the photos of jimmy cliff there is one with a route map on it to help ya out a little bit :) have fun!
By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Jul 9, 2009

you can also continue to the anchor of "Things as They Are" if you would like to make the route longer... however i dont like the route and the shorter it is the better :)
By matthewWallace
From: plymouth, nh
Jul 9, 2009

So.. the description says we climb to the Things as they Are anchors but you two say you climb to Things as they are Now anchors which is correct?
By Mike Thompson
From: Manchester NH
Jul 9, 2009

i think it comes down to personal preference. i like going to things as they are now anchors just cuz i think it flows a little better but if you want to keep it going cuz your having so much fun then by all means lol :) although i dont think you will want to cuz this is a very pumpy route and i have a feeling you will get to the first anchors and be like "nope im just gonna clip these :) " haha
By matthewWallace
From: plymouth, nh
Jul 10, 2009

Yeah thts what I did when I sent it I just wanted to mke sure I did it right... Do you think it is harder going to the anchors of Things as they Are?
By Mike Thompson
From: Manchester NH
Jul 10, 2009

not sure... ive never gone to the other anchors.. but i would think it wouldnt be harder... just not as fun haha...
By Matt Wilson
From: Bethel, Vermont, USA
Apr 21, 2012

I'm not really sure about this route... I haven't climbed it for a while but I remember topping around around the 3rd bolt and going up the slab to the anchors. I assume the proper climb does not top out until the chains?
By S. Neoh
Apr 21, 2012

I, as many others, stay on the steep face until the anchors for TATAN.
See the pics of how Lily climbed it.

P.S. Hey, Matt - I hope you will visit Bonsai. You will love the 4x 5.10 and one 5.9 there. Go for the flash/onsight on Peer Pressure and Centerpiece. Both are way better than Mr. Coffee to put it mildly.
And then head over to Waimea (the climb) and Tropicana, P1. Go with quality, man.
By Ben Dubs
Apr 22, 2013

right anchor is very wobbly
By J Meagher
Jul 22, 2013
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Even though this route is pretty short, for some reason i just really like this climb. Its a nice route for beginner 5.10 leaders, because the bolts are close and the falls are nice. Also my first 10 on lead. Good holds and surprisingly pumpy, a nice change from most short 10's at rumney.
By Nick Grant
From: Natick, MA & Tamworth, NH
Feb 25, 2014
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

This route seems pretty contrived to me. I agree with James's description: NOT the best 5.10 at Rumney (not for a long shot). However, I also have a question: How much of the top of the arete (as you move from left to right) is on-route? I'm remembering back to last fall here, but it wasn't clear to me if it was kosher to use the holds along the edge of the top of the face, or if you were supposed to stay below the top and exclusively use holds on the wall itself.
By J Meagher
Feb 27, 2014
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Nick, the holds over the top of the arÍte are on, basically just don't top out early and you'll be on route