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Upper East Face
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Beaver, The T 
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The Beaver 

YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ ZA: 11 British: MS 4a

   
Type:  Trad, Alpine, 3000', Grade III
Consensus:  YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ ZA: 11 British: MS 4a [details]
FA: Gorrell & Watson, 1935
Season: Summer
Page Views: 10,626
Submitted By: justin dubois on Jul 13, 2009

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Rappeling the Notch.

Description 

This route climbs Long's via its obvious, left skyline. Starting at the Loft, it strives to stay right on the crest of the southeast ridge.

Much of this is simply 3rd class with HUGE exposure to your right, looking down the east face, and across the Diamond's profile.
Soak it in, and stay as close to edge as you dare, peering down at the vertigous East Face!

The crux comes when you reach the Notch. The Notch is very intimidating to look into, it's a ways down! Some rappel 100' from slings on the right, into the Notch from here, or for a rope-free affair, try Gorrell's Traverse. To reach it, turn left (south) and scramble down to the 2nd of two Chimneys that drop west into the Notch.

Downclimb this (5.5 Chimney) to reach The Notch. Much care must be taken to find the easiest line, as the chimney keeps trying to cliff you out...VERY EXCITING onsight with no rope! Basically head down the first stretch of chimney until it looks unlikely to go straight down. Look right (climber's left) for a devious traverse that will deposit you onto the floor of The Notch.

From here, climb up to the crest of The Notch, and angle around to the north side.

Look for a passage leading up towards Long's summit. This is the Stepladder. Ascend this Chimney/ramp (5.5)system until the angle eases and you can easily scramble to the summit!

One could access just this pitch if desired, by heading up to the notch from Clark's Arrow....

Location 

This route is accessed from the Loft. It ascends the obvious, and elegant skyline of the East face. A great and uncrowded way to climb Longs! easily linked up with Meeker for a MEGA-CLASSIC scramble day, one of RMNP's finest!

Protection 

A light alpine rack and one rope will suffice, or just a sturdy pair of shoes, and your best routefinding skills....


Photos of The Beaver Slideshow Add Photo
The route as seen from Chasm Meadow.
BETA PHOTO: The route as seen from Chasm Meadow.
The route as seen from Mt. Meeker.
The route as seen from Mt. Meeker.
The Beaver - climbing above the Notch. We actually...
The Beaver - climbing above the Notch. We actually...
This is a straight on shot of Gorrell's Traverse.
This is a straight on shot of Gorrell's Traverse.
Coming up the Stepladder. Lots of exposure!
Coming up the Stepladder. Lots of exposure!
Route up from the Rap station. The Stepladder goes...
BETA PHOTO: Route up from the Rap station. The Stepladder goes...
Rap station at the top of the Notch - it was a lit...
BETA PHOTO: Rap station at the top of the Notch - it was a lit...
Route up the Stepladder (5.4).
BETA PHOTO: Route up the Stepladder (5.4).
Red x marks the location of the rap anchor. One 60...
BETA PHOTO: Red x marks the location of the rap anchor. One 60...

Comments on The Beaver Add Comment
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By justin dubois
From: Estes Park
Jul 14, 2009

I liked this climb so much I made a movie:
By Scott Matz
From: Loveland, CO
Jul 28, 2009

Justin, great job on the vid. It's hard to video and climb well, on these alpine routes. I have a sick Sony HD handy cam if you're doing an alpine climbs soon, hit me back, maybe we could climb parallel routes and get some footage.
By sstrauss
From: Denver
Jul 15, 2010
rating: 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c

Great video! Thanks for posting.
By mark felber
From: Wheat Ridge, CO
Jul 27, 2010
rating: 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a

Excellent scramble, the down climb into the Notch is very entertaining. Gorrell's Traverse is especially good, so don't miss out on it by rappelling.
By sstrauss
From: Denver
Aug 16, 2010
rating: 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c

Climbed on Saturday the 14th. Rapped into the Notch (awesome view East and West). Webbing and new quicklink/rap ring needed. One piece of webbing looked solid, but a little clean-up could be done. Thought we had the proper resources, only to find them in the car upon returning post hike.
Solo-ed back out via the Stepladder. Fantastic exposure.
North Face rap and called it a day.
By Canon
Jun 17, 2012

A great mellow way to spice up a great scramble. Fun for most ages!
By First Track Jack
From: Evergreen, Colorado
Jul 10, 2014

Dude, supercool video. Well done....
By Buzz
From: Boulder
Jul 24, 2014

A solo onsight downclimb of the Palisades can be "very exciting" indeed. Here's what I did (before discovering the route had a name and the route description above):

  • Start down the first (not second) notch when viewed from above.
  • Start down its south side (it has two halves).
  • Downclimb an honest jam crack, then switch to the easier crack 8' to the left (facing down).
  • Continue down on easier, broken slabs.
  • At some hard-to-describe point, like halfway down, or when you can't go any further, scramble left over a solid buttress toward the other gully to the left.
  • Almost immediately, make a descending traverse on an exposed slab back over the same buttress to the right.
  • Your prospects from there will not look good, but there's a terrific flake with sharp holds that takes you down to easier ground, about 20' up from the bottom.
  • You do not end up in the Notch; you end up in Keplinger's Couloir below the Notch.

This point is exactly where Keplinger's route (and the ex-Clark's Arrow route) takes a 90d left up toward the Homestretch. Or, scramble up into and a little past the Notch and climb Long's via Stepladder.