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This route climbs Long's via its obvious, left skyline. Starting at the Loft, it strives to stay right on the crest of the southeast ridge.
Much of this is simply 3rd class with HUGE exposure to your right, looking down the east face, and across the Diamond's profile.
Soak it in, and stay as close to edge as you dare, peering down at the vertigous East Face!
The crux comes when you reach the Notch. The Notch is very intimidating to look into, it's a ways down! Some rappel 100' from slings on the right, into the Notch from here, or for a rope-free affair, try Gorrell's Traverse. To reach it, turn left (south) and scramble down to the 2nd of two Chimneys that drop west into the Notch.
Downclimb this (5.5 Chimney) to reach The Notch. Much care must be taken to find the easiest line, as the chimney keeps trying to cliff you out...VERY EXCITING onsight with no rope! Basically head down the first stretch of chimney until it looks unlikely to go straight down. Look right (climber's left) for a devious traverse that will deposit you onto the floor of The Notch.
From here, climb up to the crest of The Notch, and angle around to the north side.
Look for a passage leading up towards Long's summit. This is the Stepladder. Ascend this Chimney/ramp (5.5)system until the angle eases and you can easily scramble to the summit!
One could access just this pitch if desired, by heading up to the notch from Clark's Arrow....
This route is accessed from the Loft. It ascends the obvious, and elegant skyline of the East face. A great and uncrowded way to climb Longs! easily linked up with Meeker for a MEGA-CLASSIC scramble day, one of RMNP's finest!
A light alpine rack and one rope will suffice, or just a sturdy pair of shoes, and your best routefinding skills....
The route as seen from Mt. Meeker.
This is a straight on shot of Gorrell's Traverse.
BETA PHOTO: Route up from the Rap station. The Stepladder goes...
BETA PHOTO: Route up the Stepladder (5.4).
Coming up the Stepladder. Lots of exposure!
Rappeling the Notch.
BETA PHOTO: Rap station at the top of the Notch - it was a lit...
The Beaver - climbing above the Notch. We actually...
BETA PHOTO: Red x marks the location of the rap anchor. One 60...
|By justin dubois|
From: Estes Park
Jul 14, 2009
I liked this climb so much I made a movie:
|By Scott Matz|
From: Loveland, CO
Jul 28, 2009
Justin, great job on the vid. It's hard to video and climb well, on these alpine routes. I have a sick Sony HD handy cam if you're doing an alpine climbs soon, hit me back, maybe we could climb parallel routes and get some footage.
Jul 15, 2010
rating: 5.4 4a 12 IV VD 3c
Great video! Thanks for posting.
|By mark felber|
From: Frisco, CO,USA
Jul 27, 2010
rating: 5.5 4b 13 IV+ MS 4a
Excellent scramble, the down climb into the Notch is very entertaining. Gorrell's Traverse is especially good, so don't miss out on it by rappelling.
Aug 16, 2010
rating: 5.4 4a 12 IV VD 3c
Climbed on Saturday the 14th. Rapped into the Notch (awesome view East and West). Webbing and new quicklink/rap ring needed. One piece of webbing looked solid, but a little clean-up could be done. Thought we had the proper resources, only to find them in the car upon returning post hike.
Solo-ed back out via the Stepladder. Fantastic exposure.
North Face rap and called it a day.
Jun 17, 2012
A great mellow way to spice up a great scramble. Fun for most ages!