The Beat Down
||Trad, 1 pitch, 55'
|Original: || YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]|
|FA: ||M. Salazar & T. Bubb, 12/1/12|
|New Route: ||Yes|
|Season: ||August-Nov. (Faces NW + Raptor closure)|
|Page Views: ||11|
|Submitted By: ||Tony B on Dec 16, 2012|
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There is some interesting movement on this one, as the crack rises up and right, but the fun is short lived due to the length of the pitch. The name was given due to an occurrence on the first attempt at climbing it. After getting past the crux, Micah pulled out and right to the arete and onto a toaster-sized rock which had appeared to be a horn but turned out to be a loose rock. The rock popped out and had a few interactions with Micah on the way down. The route was successfully sent next go, but Micah was a little banged up.
This route lies ~ 1/2 to 2/3 of way up the back of the North Ridge and is in a shorter area just 10 meters or so to the right of a short, low angle section of rock that allows one to gain the ridge-line of the East slab from the West via a non-technical ascent (the descent route).
The climb ascends up and right from the base of that corner on a rising, horizontal crack above dropping ground to reach and airy arete and then the ridge.
This route is just left of 'Get Down On It
' and merges with that route at the top-out.
Gear from finger to fist-sized, mostly cams. A single rack will do.