The Beast Flake 

This route is SO GOOD you should not bother with the regular second pitch of Recompense. You can place pro high before the traverse and do the crux with the rope above you. This move is sometimes wet, but the climbing above is hard to beat.

The Recom-Beast variation is the best way to do the route; however, there is a better variation for the next pitch so you don't have to grovel in the chimney at all.... I call it the high traverse, and it makes every pitch a classic.... After belaying atop the huge detached (yet secure) block at the top of the Beast Flake...you climb up a layback flake until you are even with a flake to your right (I normally put in a green and a purple Camalot) traverse right in to an undercling and a sidepull with bad feet.... Make a big step right on to your next belay ledge, and layback a few moves to a better stance.... It's about 5.9+, and the gear is good you just step father away from it as you go....

Bring at least one #4 BD camalot for the flake, you can walk it while you climb. Less than a #4 and you'll be running it out, although it is easy ground...

If you look left as you start feeling runout, there is at least 1 good, small cam placement that might keep you from having to lug a big cam up....

Concerning the high traverse:
This weekend, 7/6/07, I watched someone pull off the large rock which I believe is the undercling that Lee describes, making this high traverse significantly harder than 5.9.

wow if it is indeed the same hold i was talking about that is both sad and scary... i will have to take a look at some point... if anyone has more info please post it...

We were climbing Recompense when another party started up behind us, going for the Recom-Beast variation. From the beginning of 3rd pitch belay we had a clear view of the leader grabbing (undercling) the tv-sized hold, saying it moved when he touched it. he grabbed it again and that was all it took to send it flying down. We saw them the next day in EMS and they said you can see the gashes in the trail and it damaged some trees. They also said they found the rock and placed it by the trail for display. They said the lower traverse is still possible, but that high traverse is now a much harder option. They had to bail after the rock went down. Let me know if you have any more questions, yes its sad, seemed like a great climb!

17 May 2008 - I added a picture to the photo section of where the flake used to be. Upon noting the missing under cling, I opted for the low traverse...which sucks.

I happen to like the step across into the abyss on the low traverse, it gives the climb a sense of 'Oh shit, I think I might blow this'

Although I do think that losing that flake makes the climb a little less fun.

It's still a three-star route, no doubt about it.

Hmm, I've never even climbed the original Recompense route, always the beast flake variation. Looks like that might change.

I was wondering if someone could give me some info on the new best way to get from the beast flake to the third pitch of recompense? I've heard a few different things and am a little confused. thanks!

Well Zigs, there were a couple options for the traverse but one of them fell off so that makes your decision a little easier... you traverse down in to the chimney and do a few grovely off-width type moves up on to the ledge at the base of the corner where you can belay your second from a small crack near a stump...

I liked the other way better but i should get over it one of these days :)

For P3 traverse, I would advise against a high traverse as the feet are non existent and the undercling flake is gone. Instead low traverse, and if you are queasy about traversing w/o protection, you can do a blind stuff of a #3 BD Cam. Fits like a glove, then cruise across and work your way up the chimmney to much better climbing above! Enjoy!

The entry move into the flake is pretty wicked. I wasn't able to pull the low traverse move back to Recompense. If you run into the same predicament as I, there is a bail anchor near the top of the Beast flake that you can lower from to get back onto the 2nd pitch of Recompense.

First Ascent. Paul Ross George Myers. 5th July 1972

And what a pitch! Imagine all the people who have enjoyed following that ascent over the years.

it lives up to the hype. the move into the beast flake is often wet, but the feet are good and the flake itself is just a gem