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The Beast Alcove and Refuse Area

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Alcove Cracks 
AP Treat 
Beast 666 
Browns Fist 
Cerebrus 
Lower Refuse 
Reincarnation (aid), aka 0.6 (free) 
Welton's Corner (aka: "By The Way") 
Whack-A-Mole 
Wild 
Wildabeast 
Unsorted Routes:

The Beast Alcove and Refuse Area 


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Administrators: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: lee hansche on Aug 23, 2007
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Description 

These areas are often listed separately but they share an approach trail and are separated from all other sections of the cliff.

This area is often overlooked. For example I had done almost every classic up to 5.10 at Cathedral before even hiking up to check out this nice hidden corner. People climb here for sure but it doesn't see near as much traffic as the much easier to stumble upon Lower Left Wall. When moderates on the popular walls are packed think about getting on Browns Fist 5.7+ or Lower Refuse 5.8. Or if its hard cracks you are looking for look no further, climbs here range from 5.7+ to 5.13c.

Rainy days can be a drag for crack climbers but here is one little ray of hope. The start of The Beast is normally dry in the rain and offers two 5.10s with a convenient lower off or toprope anchor.


Getting There 

Located on a ledge above a slab to the left of the start of Recompense, access this area by hiking toward that route and breaking left up a small trail which will lead you straight to the huge corner that holds Browns Fist. Scramble one ledge up and to your right and you will find your self standing in the belly of the Beast Alcove.


11 Total Routes


['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',7],['2 Stars',4],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',1],['5.8',2],['5.9',1],['5.10',1],['5.11',4],['5.12',1],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for The Beast Alcove and Refuse Area:
Browns Fist   5.7+ 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b     Trad   
Lower Refuse   5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c     Trad   
AP Treat   5.8+ 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c     Trad, 50'   
Alcove Cracks   5.10 6b 20 VII- E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 40'   
Wild   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- E3 5c     Trad, 110'   
Wildabeast   5.11d 7a 24 VIII E5 6a     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   
Browse More Classics in The Beast Alcove and Refuse Area

Featured Route For The Beast Alcove and Refuse Area
Beta Photo.

Browns Fist 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b  NH : Cathedral Ledge : The Beast Alcove and Refuse...
I really enjoyed this climb. The only downside was its somewhat short length. If it had another pitch on top of this one it might get a little more credit. I'd say its best attributes were nice jamming interesting moves and the best knee-bar I've found at Cathedral, right where you would want it in the crux.Start up the obvious corner and in to some nice cracks to the awkward roof crux. There is a direct version that heads straight up and out the roof; however, you can traverse under ...[more]   Browse More Classics in NH

Comments on The Beast Alcove and Refuse Area Add Comment
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By EDGE
From: Boulder, CO
Nov 3, 2012

A couple of corrections to climbs here as listed in the guidebooks; I have no idea how to contact the guidebook authors should they wish to correct future editions:

The route Handren (2012) lists as "By The Way" 5.10a by Hurley and Kahn, 2007 was originally lead by Loran Smith in the Spring of 1986 after a brief scrubbing. I named it "Welton's Corner" after my grandfather who passed away earlier that week. I climbed it a week later with Mack Johnson who confirmed my 5.9 rating. See route description for further details.

The route Webster (1996) refers to as "Slings & Arrows" ascends the left side of the slab where AP Treat is located. It had one 1/4" bolt about 15-20' up which was placed on lead after a thorough and exhaustive cleaning, hence the original name "A Maid in the Shade" (FA by Loran Smith, 1986, belayed by my soon-to-be wife who did not follow). It was rated 5.9+ PG at the time of the FA, but as of Nov 2012 the bolt is either gone or hidden under inches of beautifully thick green moss. Not worth re-scrubbing or doing.