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The Beast Alcove and Refuse Area
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Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Alcove Cracks 
AP Treat 
Beast 666 
Browns Fist 
Cerebrus 
Lower Refuse 
Reincarnation (aid), aka 0.6 (free) 
Welton's Corner (aka: "By The Way") 
Whack-A-Mole 
Wild 
Wildabeast 
Unsorted Routes:

The Beast Alcove and Refuse Area 


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Administrators: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Tom Erickson
Submitted By: lee hansche on Aug 23, 2007

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Joshua Corbett on TR, just about to start the crux...

Description 

These areas are often listed separately but they share an approach trail and are separated from all other sections of the cliff.

This area is often overlooked. For example I had done almost every classic up to 5.10 at Cathedral before even hiking up to check out this nice hidden corner. People climb here for sure but it doesn't see near as much traffic as the much easier to stumble upon Lower Left Wall. When moderates on the popular walls are packed think about getting on Browns Fist 5.7+ or Lower Refuse 5.8. Or if its hard cracks you are looking for look no further, climbs here range from 5.7+ to 5.13c.

Rainy days can be a drag for crack climbers but here is one little ray of hope. The start of The Beast is normally dry in the rain and offers two 5.10s with a convenient lower off or toprope anchor.


Getting There 

Located on a ledge above a slab to the left of the start of Recompense, access this area by hiking toward that route and breaking left up a small trail which will lead you straight to the huge corner that holds Browns Fist. Scramble one ledge up and to your right and you will find your self standing in the belly of the Beast Alcove.


The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for The Beast Alcove and Refuse Area:
Reincarnation (aid), aka 0.6 (free)   A3     Trad, Aid, 1 pitch, 110 feet   
Browns Fist   5.7+     Trad   
Lower Refuse   5.8     Trad   
AP Treat   5.8+     Trad, 50 feet   
Welton's Corner (aka: "By The Way")   5.9     Trad, 1 pitch, 45 feet   
Alcove Cracks   5.10     Trad, 1 pitch, 40 feet   
Whack-A-Mole   5.11a/b X     Trad, 45 feet   
Wild   5.11b     Trad, 110 feet   
Beast 666   5.11+     Trad, 1 pitch, 100 feet   
Wildabeast   5.11d     Trad, 1 pitch, 100 feet   
Cerebrus   5.12+ PG13     Trad, 110 feet   
Browse More Classics in The Beast Alcove and Refuse Area

Featured Route For The Beast Alcove and Refuse Area
Joshua Corbett on TR, just about to start the crux moves of Welton's Corner.

Welton's Corner (aka: "By The Way") 5.9  NH : Cathedral Ledge : The Beast Alcove and Refuse...
This is the route starting just right of AP Treat, next to the stone steps accessing the Prow Area. Begin on a shallow arête leading to cracks and flakes which bring you to a stance under the final shallow corner. Climb the corner past a bolt (not present on the FA) to the top and a shared tree belay with AP Treat....[more]   Browse More Classics in NH


Comments on The Beast Alcove and Refuse Area Add Comment
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By EDGE
Nov 3, 2012

A couple of corrections to climbs here as listed in the guidebooks; I have no idea how to contact the guidebook authors should they wish to correct future editions:

The route Handren (2012) lists as "By The Way" 5.10a by Hurley and Kahn, 2007 was originally lead by Loran Smith in the Spring of 1986 after a brief scrubbing. I named it "Welton's Corner" after my grandfather who passed away earlier that week. I climbed it a week later with Mack Johnson who confirmed my 5.9 rating. See route description for further details.

The route Webster (1996) refers to as "Slings & Arrows" ascends the left side of the slab where AP Treat is located. It had one 1/4" bolt about 15-20' up which was placed on lead after a thorough and exhaustive cleaning, hence the original name "A Maid in the Shade" (FA by Loran Smith, 1986, belayed by my soon-to-be wife who did not follow). It was rated 5.9+ PG at the time of the FA, but as of Nov 2012 the bolt is either gone or hidden under inches of beautifully thick green moss. Not worth re-scrubbing or doing.