Climb the pumpy curtain to the top and belay from here. Second pitch is WI3 with two options.
From the main area of Kinsman follow a trail left that traverses along the base of the cliff. After roughly 100 yards you will come to The Beast. Descent is via rappel. One 70m rappel just barely makes it from the top. Two rappels with a 60m.
FAT, big screws and lots of them.
View from the intermediate belay stance.
|By Ted Sumers|
Jan 28, 2012
the approach beta here is wrong.
when you walk towards the Kinsman ice from the road, this is LEFT of the main area. after you make it up to the base of the main area, turn left and go about 100 yards past Leprechaun's Lament. My partner and I wound up bushwhacking about 300 yards in the wrong direction the first time we tried to find this...
great climb though, well worth the walk over from the rest of the Kinsman ice. did in a single pitch with 60m doubles-- bit of a rope stretcher but definitely possible.
|By E thatcher|
From: Plymouth/ North Conway (NH)
Jan 30, 2012
You're absolutely right Ted! Thanks for the catch, and I'm sorry I misdirected you guys into a far bushwhack! I'll fix it now.