The Bear Flare
||Trad, Boulder, 15'
|Consensus: || Hueco: V6 Font: 7A [details]|
|FA: ||Justin Edl and Bonnie Botello|
|Page Views: ||814|
|Submitted By: ||Justin Edl on Oct 25, 2010|
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This is a really cool, bombay, roof crack. Start at the very back of the roof and burl your way out to the lip using an interesting combination of chimney and hand/tight hand, crack technique. The lip is a committing offwidth and fist sequence above an uneven landing.
Park in the main parking lot in Central, right below the western side of Old Easy, and begin walking up the paved trail into Box Canyon. When you get to the first picnic area on the right, which is overhung by an immense boulder, cut up into the talus. Upon entering the talus, look for the big boulder with the obvious and promising forty five degree overhanging face which more or less faces down toward the parking lot. This boulder is near the bottom of the talus field. Scramble up the talus beneath this overhang and look left to spy this A-frame roof crack.
Pads and spotters. Though the lip is only about ten feet up, pinballing out of it would be a bad idea.