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 ADVANCED
The Bear
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Bear Arete, The 
Bear Crack, The 
Bear Cub Crack 
Bear Fingers 
Bear's Choice 
Beast of Burden 
Beast, The 
Black Hole Sun 
Body Snatcher 
Jason and the Argonauts 
Jekyll and Hyde 
Just Bearly 
Kidnapped 
Kill Uncle 
Kodiak 
Lower Arete 
Mark's Moderate 
Napa Valley Party Service 
Old And In The Way 
Polar Bear Spire 
Rampage 
Silverado Squatters 
Smash n Grab 
Stone Free 
Swallow My Pride 
Theodore Roosevelt 
Treasure Island 
Uncle Tom 
Ursa Major 
Ursa Minor, aka: Guillotine Crack 
Wayne's World 
Unsorted Routes:

The Bear Arete 

YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- British: E3 5c

   
Type: Sport, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Mark Howe
Page Views: 498
Submitted By: Brian Quiter on Jun 4, 2002
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Description 

The Bear Arete is the right-most climb on the second pitch of the bear. The climb is pretty straight-forward until the second bolt, where it seems that there are plentiful holds to the right, yet they don't go anywhere. Conversely, there are a few less generous holds on the left that will have to suffice. I don't know if we did it right, but we did an up-and-left dyno after the third bolt... it was tough and weird, but fun none-the-less. My main complaint about the route was the lack of traffic it has seen. There was a bunch of loose rock that we knocked off, and moss that covered many important grips and decreased their utility. This also caused the grips to be chock-free, which made the climb seem harder, and more confusing, but more interesting as well!


Protection 

7 bolts to 2 bolt anchor. Make sure to clip into the anchors below and to the left of the climb while belaying.



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By Aron Quiter
Administrator
From: Oakland, CA
Jun 23, 2002

Thin, sketchy. That great foothold you want to use will fall off.

By eric berghorn
From: Calistoga,CA
Feb 8, 2008

As I participated in the installation of this route years ago it was interesting to read these (now ancient) comments. I have probably lead this climb to the anchors 8-10 times over the past 10 years but never redpointed. My last attempts after a LONG lay off showed that the few attempts which have been made here, along with water seepage/ erosion, have ultimately made the climb (especially after 3rd bolt crux) thinner and harder. I would say it's slightly harder than the listed grade, more like 5.11 c/d at the crux. This aesthetic line has great position on the cliff, but contains some very average quality rock & climbing moves (as the the above author suggests.) Above the crux, after the fourth bolt,the climbing gets more interesting . . .

By Aron Quiter
Administrator
From: Oakland, CA
May 11, 2009

It's been 7 years since I climbed this, I still don't have a redpoint, and it still scares the hell out of me. The hard moves are protected well, but still no evidence of others on it recently.

By Brian Quiter
From: Oakland, CA
May 11, 2009

I too hit up this climb for the first time in years, but want to note some changes from my original description:
1) No dyno necessary, but the crux is still tricky with crumbly feet. I agree with Eric about the ~11c suggestion.
2) There are now 4 bolts leaving ground level that lead into what I had known as the Bear Arete. They follow a seam past another 5.11 section that was quite fun and on solid rock. We did the whole route as 1 pitch, and found our 60 meter rope was long enough to lower us to the 4th class ledge that starts this version of the climb.
2.5) Clipping the 4th bolt on the ground start will significantly add to rope drag up top. The climbing between the 4th bolt and the anchors of the original Bear Arete is about 5.4, so skipping the bolt may improve your comfort later on.

By Dodrill
From: Sebastopol, CA
Dec 31, 2009

See entry for "Kodiak"

By Mark K. Howe
Jun 9, 2010

I understand some of the disappointment with this route. The line is stellar but what starts out as difficult but enjoyable climbing gets stalled by the crux at the base of the second pitch. It usually frustrates and burns you out unless you have rehearsed this section to unlock the sequence. Most people I have observed on this route stay to far to the left here. If I remember, a slight heel hooked out to the right allows you to bump your right hand up twice before gaining a good side pull with the left. The really fun part is finally getting onto the buckets above and watching helplessly as your spent fingers open up. I have taken the worst fall this climb has without trauma if that's any consolation.