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The route starts in the middle of the south face. You can either scramble up broken rock to the base or walk up hill and then turn left on a grassy (safe) ledge system. The climb starts near a small & healthy pine tree and goes over a small roof (the first three bolts are well placed). The second pitch climbs up the over hanging SHARP BEAK. The last pitch climbs to a large pine tree at the top of the rock. The shortest descent goes left to a ramp, traverse the ramp down and left to the gully, down the gully to the grassy ledge (to the start of the route).
The most bolted pitch has 9 bolts plus the anchor - 13 draws is more than enough. Since you need to walk off, a 165ft rope is all you need.
|By b hof|
From: P West, CO
Mar 20, 2012
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- E2 5b
Did this route again this fall and chains were added to the 2nd pitch anchors for your rappelling pleasure. Bring about 10' of webbing to sling the tree at the top of the 3rd pitch, that's if you wanted to bother with the easy 5th class climbing. I haven't had any problems with a rope getting stuck, but you can always walk off after the 3rd pitch.