|Type:||Trad, 4 pitches, 500', Grade III|
|Consensus:||YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]|
|FA:||Bert Jensen and companions, 1937|
|Submitted By:||bradley white on Jul 22, 2009 with updates from David Powers|
|Comments on The Beak Buttress (the nose)||Add Comment|
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Sep 23, 2010
A buddy and I climbed owl's head last weekend I'm wondering if anyone can tell me if I was on the right route ;)
We tried to do the beak buttress with an alternate start (because the first pitch looked full of plants). The alternate start was on the next bolted route directly to the west of the buttress (I find it nearly impossible to figure out which route this is based on the descriptions and numbering system on this site; I guess it W6?). We climbed the first several (6?) bolts of the slab and then traversed on decent pro to the tree and ledge on the west side of the buttress.
The route we took is highlighted here:
The middle part of the climb (what is described on this site as the third pitch I believe) is different than what is depicted in the "Rock Climbing New England" guide. For this pitch, I'm pretty sure we stayed on the route described here. It was worth it. By far the best section of the route besides the alternate start.
The least obvious part of the climb was the top part where there is some potentially really nice rock if you go straight up but it looks dirty and moss filled. It didn't look like there was much pro so we continued diagonally to the east after the very nice 30 feet of flake. The description on this site says to head for the "large dirty inside corner facing west". I'm not sure how close our route is to the one described?
By David Powers
Sep 24, 2010
|From the line you drew on the photo it appears you started up a route called Jupiter (not on this site) then traversed on to the Nose or as called here Beak Buttress. We saw you guys on our way out on Sun, must of been a late one for you. Good job on taking it to the top. How did you get back down?|
Sep 25, 2010
Although there was a potential rap route it was getting dark (6:30ish?) so we decided to take the less adventurous way down after noticing a marked trail...
since it got dark fast we stayed on the trail and didn't try to cut back west to rejoin the cliff. This was maybe the wrong decision as we didn't get back to the car till 8:30.
The walk took us far east until we joined the blueberry mountain trail:
Live and learn...
there must be a better way to walk back to the bottom of the cliff.
By bradley white
Jun 17, 2013
|Except for the start that is a scramble uphill right of where you guys started and goes up a crack in the block in the trees below where you came in to the nose. From there you stayed on route. I described the original ascent line and not the best way up nowadays. Nice to know that the big slab 'Jupiter' is bolted.|