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The Beach

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Albinestone S 
Apes and Ballerinas T 
Between the Cheeks S 
Dead Reckoning (aka the Terry-Michaels route) T,S 
Heaven's rear-entry vehicle, parked out back, tow away zone T 
Normandy S 
Perverse Traverse, The S 
Up'er Zipper T,S 

The Beach  


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Page Views: 6,795
Administrators: Peter Franzen, Jon Nelson, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Jon Nelson on May 19, 2012
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Description 

The Beach, also known as the Upper Cheeks, stretches from the Perverse Traverse all the way over to the gully between the Cheeks and the Diamond. The white faces of the Cheeks house some of the steepest climbs in the area and is sunny in the morning and goes into the shade in the early afternoon.

Because of it's lofty position and the lack of thermal mass directly below it, The Beach stays cool in the summer heat when the lower walls are unbearable but does not retain cold pockets of air on clear winter days.

Between The Black Sea, The Beach, and the Lower Cheeks there is a small concentration of climbing that rivals in quality and surpasses in scenic beauty any of the more traveled classics of the Lower Wall.

For instance, the 4th pitch of the Zipper is as good as steep crack climbing gets in an astounding alpine position. Normandy overhangs 20' and stays completely dry even in a steady rain. As do the top rope-able routes directly below on the Lower Cheeks.

Getting There 

A common approach from the left side is via the Perverse Traverse.

As of March 2013, one can just clip into a thick cable and shuffle across to the Beach, completely protected. No rope is needed, and no perversity.

Climbing Season



Weather station 1.0 miles from here

8 Total Routes

['4 Stars',3],['3 Stars',4],['2 Stars',0],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',1],['5.9',0],['5.10',3],['5.11',2],['5.12',2],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for The Beach:
Between the Cheeks   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 100'   
Up'er Zipper   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Trad, Sport, 4 pitches, 300'   
Dead Reckoning (aka the Terry-Michaels route)   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Trad, Sport, 2 pitches, 200'   
Normandy   5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport   
Browse More Classics in The Beach

Featured Route For The Beach
Looking at the first pitch of the Upper Zipper (11-).

Up'er Zipper 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c  WA : Index : ... : The Beach
Amazing pure splitter crack climbing after the first pitch of flakes and bolts. Generally follows the upper 3 pitches of the Zipper aid line.P1: Some semi-strenuous laybacking at the start gives way to fun knobs and flakes, finishing up at a small overlap with a hanging belay (chained anchor). About 10c/d. P2: A crack starts up from the overlap. The first few jams are wide fists, but then the crack becomes thinner, ranging between fingers and hands. Pumpy. The crack continues into a shallow righ...[more]   Browse More Classics in WA

Photos of The Beach Slideshow Add Photo
Wilmans walkabout P1
Wilmans walkabout P1
Quadruple cracks on Lions, Tigers, and Bears.
Quadruple cracks on Lions, Tigers, and Bears.
The Incision
The Incision
Index Steep
Index Steep

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