The Beach, specifically the wide ledge at the base of the Upper Cheeks, stretches from the Perverse Traverse rightward to the gully next to the Diamond. The white faces of the Upper Cheeks house some of the steepest climbs in the area.
Because of it's lofty position, rock here stays cool in the summer heat when the lower walls are unbearable. Yet the area does not retain cold pockets of air on clear winter days. Sunlight strikes the walls in the morning, leaving the rock in the shade from the early afternoon.
With the adjacent areas of The Black Sea and the Lower Cheeks, this area has a concentration of climbing that rivals in quality and surpasses in scenic beauty any of the more traveled classics of the Lower Wall.
For instance, the 2nd pitch of the Up'er Zipper is as good as steep crack climbing gets in an astounding alpine position. Normandy overhangs 20' and stays completely dry even in a steady rain. As do the top rope-able routes directly below on the Lower Cheeks.
A common approach from the left side is via the Perverse Traverse.
As of March 2013, one can just clip into a thick cable and shuffle across to the Beach, completely protected. No rope is needed, and no perversity.
Weather station 1.0 miles from here
9 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',3],['3 Stars',5],['2 Stars',0],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',0]
Classic Climbing Routes in The Beach
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in The Beach
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for The Beach:
Up'er Zipper 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Trad, Sport, 4 pitches, 300'
Albinestone 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Normandy 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Featured Route For The Beach
Up'er Zipper 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c WA
: ... : The Beach
Amazing pure splitter crack climbing after the first pitch of flakes and bolts. Generally follows the upper 3 pitches of the Zipper aid line.P1: Some semi-strenuous laybacking at the start gives way to fun knobs and flakes, finishing up at a small overlap with a hanging belay (chained anchor). About 10c/d. P2: A crack starts up from the overlap. The first few jams are wide fists, but then the crack becomes thinner, ranging between fingers and hands. Pumpy. The crack continues into a shallow righ...[more] Browse More Classics in WA
Quadruple cracks on Lions, Tigers, and Bears.
By Ben Gilkison
Aug 2, 2015
When is someone going to free that Soul Finger? Think there has been a rope up there for some time.