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Elevation: 9,000 ft
GPS: 36.5871, -118.24813
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 14,152 total · 92/month
Shared By: Bryan G on Aug 25, 2011
Admins: Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

Description Suggest change

The Beach is yet another formation in the Portal that is worth checking out. It is a bit further from the road than some of the other areas, but it's just a stone's throw from a major hiking trail, making the 30-40 minute approach painless. This sun-bleached cliff catches plenty of rays, so bring some sunglasses, sunscreen, and plenty of beer to stay hydrated. The rock is mostly excellent with a bit of dirt and flaky edges that will clean up with traffic.

The right side of the wall is bigger and steeper, with a bunch of 1-2 pitch routes for the honed slab-master (11's and 12's mostly).

The left side of the wall is much shorter and lower angle, lined with black water-streaks down the pearly granite. Here you will find more than a dozen routes in the 5.10 range. Unlike most areas in the Portal, these short pitches can be easily toproped with a single rope. I wouldn't go so far as to call it "beginner friendly" (since 5.10a slab is anything but beginner friendly), but the nice flat base and large concentration of routes do make this an ideal location to take a large group. After leading one route, you can usually toprope the routes on either side by making an easy traverse to the adjacent anchors.

The South Wall is a separate formation that faces the main cliff. This is the imposing, north-facing wall immediately across the trail. It is home to "The Domestication of Mr. Daniels", a 2 pitch 5.11c on the right side of the wall.

Getting There Suggest change

Follow the Whitney Trail for about a mile as it snakes past Whitney Portal Buttress and heads west. You will cross Carillon Creek along the way. Just before you reach the North Fork of Lone Pine Creek, hang a right onto the North Fork Trail (like you're going to the Mountaineer's Route) and follow it up the steep hillside. After a few minuets the Beach will be plainly in sight just to the right. Walk over to the wall.

The "Bishop Area" guidebook describes an alternate approach leaving from the far west end of the parking area on a climber's trail that heads straight up the hill to join the Whitney Trail just south of the North Fork. We didn't even bother looking for this since I calculated a 63% chance we'd end up in a steep, shoes-filled-with-sand, off-trail, bushwhack. But maybe it's a worthwhile shortcut...

16 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at The Beach

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 7
Holy Handgrenade
Trad
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 5
White Shadow
Trad
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 9
Mountaineers Route
Trad
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 4
Late Takeoff
Trad
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 4
Tree Line
Trad
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Holy Handgrenade
 7
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
White Shadow
 5
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Mountaineers Route
 9
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad
Late Takeoff
 4
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad
Tree Line
 4
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Trad
More Classic Climbs in The Beach »

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