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The Beach

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Lunkers, The 
Sex on the Beach boulder 

The Beach  


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Location: 37.66311, -89.51158 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 3,066
Administrators: Dave Hug, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: jeremy ward on Jan 19, 2011
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Description 

The Beach is yet another collection of great sandstone boulders in southern Illinois that are fun to play on! This collection sits along side the mighty Mississippi River for a stretch of a half of a mile or so. There are currently approximately 70-80 established boulder problems with possibilities for more. The rock is pretty high quality and river polished. The landings range from perfect soft sand to medium sized, ankle breaking talus with a few pads and spotters coming in handy more often than not. The Beach can feel cooler than other areas in the summer due to the open nature of the boulders in contrast to other areas in So Ill buried in the woods seeming to trap in the humidity. This coupled with the river a stones throw away can make for somewhat comfortable summertime conditions for a session especially in the mornings and evenings. One drawback to the beach is the fact that the number of problems that are climbable can change from day to day due to changes in the water levels and the fact that the boulders can border the river. For current water levels check rivergauges.com - Mississippi River - Grand Tower, IL. Please consult "Sandstone Warrior" by Matt Bliss for a great comprehensive guidebook on The Beach and many other areas in So Ill and Elephant Rocks, MO

Getting There 

Park where the map indicates on this mountain project page. From there follow the atv trail up and around the grain silo location. The walk takes about 15 minutes and it puts you out on an old road. This leads directly to the boulders.

Climbing Season



Weather station 0.4 miles from here

6 Total Routes

['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',4],['2 Stars',0],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',0],['5.9',0],['5.10',0],['5.11',0],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',1],['V4-5',2],['V6-7',2],['V8-9',1],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]


Featured Route For The Beach
Sex on the Beach follows the red line in the photo

Sex on the Beach V5-6 6C+  IL : The Beach : Sex on the Beach boulder
Starting on the good start holds of Jimbo's, head right on good crimps and jugs. Hit a huge jug in the middle of the face and go straight up to two incut crimpers. From here, move your left hand once more into a good, slightly slopey jug, hike your feet up and do a hard move to the final hold. Ultra classic. One of the only problems in the v6 range in So iLL on jugs!...[more]   Browse More Classics in IL

Photos of The Beach Slideshow Add Photo
Don climbing a little crack problem
Don climbing a little crack problem
walking down the beach
walking down the beach
Shelby climbing a fun shorty
Shelby climbing a fun shorty
Me on River View
Me on River View
walking down the beach looking for more boulders
walking down the beach looking for more boulders
another nice block at The Beach
another nice block at The Beach

Comments on The Beach Add Comment
Show which comments
By Eero46
Nov 13, 2012
There is no "trail" down the hill after the atv trail. I would just recommend following the atv trail all the way until it butts up against the river. I ran into a hunter while walking down the atv trail and he doesn't care as long as you stay on the trail.
By Dave Hug
Administrator
From: Carbondale, Illinois
Jul 20, 2014


Some fine beach bouldering
By Dave Hug
Administrator
From: Carbondale, Illinois
Jul 20, 2014


More Beach bouldering