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This crag has two 5.11's, a few 5.12's and a few 5.13's. It is located above and left of the main Sunnyside wall and is a steep little wall with some impressive overhangs on its left side. It catches lots of morning sun, and can be VERY hot in direct sun, so it's necessary to have a strategy to avoid the heat. You can: Go on a day when the temperature is below 60. Go on a cloudy day. Go later in the afternoon when the sun angle is more favorable. As the sun swings north in the spring, the crag gets good shade about mid-afternoon. So Feb, March and April are good months to make a mid-to-late afternoon visit. In April, most of the routes are in shade by 1 p.m.
Follow the map provided. Take the upper trail then cut right on the spur trail and follow it past the Cheese Block a ways then take the split left up to The Beach.
9 Total Routes
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Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for The Beach:
For The Lova Mike 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- E4 5c Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
Solar Power 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a Sport, 40'
Milanoma 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- E6 6b Sport, 1 pitch, 35'
Blood Meridian 5.12+ 7c 28 IX E6 6b Sport, 40'
Eclipse 5.12+ 7c 28 IX E6 6b Sport, 1 pitch, 30'
Holeo An' Glassy Ass 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ E6 6c Sport, 40'
Pipeline 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ E6 6c Sport, 45'
No War 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- E7 7a Sport, 1 pitch, 40'
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