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The Beach Areas

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Upper Beach 

The Beach Areas Rock Climbing 


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Administrators: Greg Opland, JJ Schlick, Hendrixson, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Mike on Feb 10, 2010
Forecast:
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79° | 61°
Saturday

83° | 61°
Sunday

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Leah Sandvoss on Moonjuice (5.11c), Upper Beach, C...

Description 

A nice, sunny cragging area with 2 main walls, the upper beach & lower beach. Great crack routes and, at the upper beach, a couple extremely nice sport routes on super hard rock. Very sunny. Stays warm pretty much all the time.

Getting There 

Park at the Mystic trailhead on Chapel Road. Approach as for the Planetarium, but stay on the trail a little past the Planetarium turn-off until you reach an obvious wash. Turn right (roughly west) and hike/slog up the steep drainage to gain the cliffs directly above The Planetarium.

Climbing Season

For the Church Spires Area area.

Weather station 1.4 miles from here

12 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',6],['2 Stars',6],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',1],['5.9',2],['5.10',3],['5.11',5],['5.12',1],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in The Beach Areas

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for The Beach Areas:
Scallop   5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 55'   Lower Beach
Corona   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   Upper Beach
Calm Water   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   Lower Beach
Nurse Rathcet AKA Thai Phai   5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   Upper Beach
Reef Shark   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   Lower Beach
Black Gold   5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   Upper Beach
Red Sky   5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   Upper Beach
Go With The Flow   5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c     Trad, 1 pitch, 90'   Upper Beach
Typhoon   5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   Lower Beach
Dangling Monkey   5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Trad, 2 pitches, 100'   Upper Beach
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in The Beach Areas

Featured Route For The Beach Areas
Rock Climbing Photo: Typhoon!

Typhoon 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a  AZ : *Sedona Area : ... : Lower Beach
This is an alluring line from a distance, and a deceptive one when you are looking up from the base of it. The climbing demands steep slab skills, a calm heart on tenuous, low percentage smears, as well as, bizarre stemming which demands a loose grip on the laws of physics... A unique testpiece, that is also good training for the first pitch of PMT .12- on the Trundlers Club Buttress....[more]   Browse More Classics in AZ

Comments on The Beach Areas Add Comment
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By tdstreeter
Apr 13, 2013
what the descriptions of the beach areas fail to mention is how hard this approach really is...especially for the upper beach areas. lots of loose rock, dirt and steep hiking. great climbing, dont get me wrong but the approach can kill your appetite for hard climbing.
By Dave Meservy
Feb 22, 2014
I found a Women's sports watch at the base of the upper beach-near moon juice. If you lost it, email me back with what type of watch you lost and I will return it to you.

Thanks,

Dave

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