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A nice, sunny cragging area with 2 main walls, the upper beach & lower beach. Great crack routes and, at the upper beach, a couple extremely nice sport routes on super hard rock. Very sunny. Stays warm pretty much all the time.
Park at the Mystic trailhead on Chapel Road. Approach as for the Planetarium, but stay on the trail a little past the Planetarium turn-off until you reach an obvious wash. Turn right (roughly west) and hike/slog up the steep drainage to gain the cliffs directly above The Planetarium.
12 Total Routes
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Moon Juice 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a AZ : Sedona Area : ... : Upper Beach
Moon Juice is a classic bit of sport climbing sitting high above the church, and for the grade stands out as one of the better sport pitches in Sedona. If it's cold out, this south facing route is guaranteed to warm you up one way or another.Look for the overhanging arete with huecos and large rails! Start up vertical face and figure out the tricky low crux, and then pick your way past a heavily pocketed band of stone. Take a quick break at the base of the overhanging arÍte, a few deep breaths ...[more] Browse More Classics in AZ
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