|Consensus:||YDS: 5.11b/c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]|
|Submitted By:||burlap submariner on Sep 15, 2012|
|Comments on The BBB route||Add Comment|
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By Matt Desenberg
From: North Berwick, ME
Nov 22, 2012
rating: 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
|This is a fun climb with good pro once you reach the bolt. The bolt protecting the optional .11 finish (which is the way to go, btw) may be in need of replacing.|
From: Hooksett, New Hampshire
Dec 12, 2015
I absolutely loved the moves on this route. The crack and above is a blast. Definitely finish the actual route and don't bail left to the finish of Desperation - there's more quality and tricky climbing up there. The sequence up to the anchors is fantastic and not obvious.
Be confident on 5.9 face climbing or don't lead this. The first 20' of climbing is trickier than it looks and a fall would not be good. I appreciate that the setters seem to make an effort limiting metal at this cliff, and that this is a "trad" route, but it seems to me that an additional bolt 12' up or so would be nice and could prevent an unnecessary accident.