Home - Destinations - iPhone/Android - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New
Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Fortress Wall
Select Route:
American Crack 
American Wall 
Battlement, The 
Bedtime for Bonzo 
Blue Runner 
Bombs Bursting 
Calypso I 
Calypso II 
Calypso III 
Fading Memory 
Get Outta My Way 
Horny Bitch 
Party Time 
Route 48 
Scratch Your Face 
Serpent 
Snake 
Turret, The 
Where Lizards Dare 

The Battlement 

YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5b

   
Type: Trad, 2 pitches, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5b [details]
FA: J. Bronaugh, R. Snider - 1982
Season: Anytime it is dry
Page Views: 687
Submitted By: Tony B on Oct 6, 2006
Good Page?0 people like this page. Your opinion:   

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Tony Bubb approaches the crux roof on The Battleme...

Add Photo Add Comment    Printer View

Description 

A hard climb when it is dry and ill-advised when it is wet. In the wetter seasons, it can drip water all day. A challenging route with hand-size dependent difficulty, I find it worthy of the 5.10+ rating, given my smaller paws.

Start up in the left facing corner on smaller gear and do a few stemming moves (5.9?) to get tucked in under the huge roof. Make your way out the roof on good jams and pull the lip (crux) above a large cam and a large Jam. The day I did it I ran into Ron Snyder at the top, who commented that he believed that the route may have gotten harder since the FA, perhaps that a finishing hold over the lip was gone.


Location 

This climb is on the upper tier of Fortress Wall and is one of the few routes in the center to access the true top. Start on a route on the right side of the huge amphitheatre, Horny Bitch, Route 52, Cussin' Crack, or Bombs Bursting. Access the ledge above and walk back to the bottom of a large left-facing corner capped by a huge roof.


Protection 

A set of stoppers and cams to a #4 camalot.



Comments on The Battlement Add Comment
Show which comments
By Jeremy Steck
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Oct 16, 2007

As of 10/07, the anchors for this route are a small tree about 20 Ft. into the woods after reaching the first stance after the roof. Great route, best if your second can clean it, otherwise you have to do it on rappel and it's a real nightmare!