The Bastille - W Face Rock Climbing
A soloist on a mild fall evening.
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The Bastille is a cornerstone of climbing in Eldorado Canyon State Park. According to P. Ament in High Over Boulder
this was once called Chimney Rock and may have been named The Bastille by Stan Shepard in 1957. This is the section for the W Face. There is probably little for the lower end difficulty climber nor the high end climber here. The section of the crag provides a wonderful afternoon exposure for the cooler months. Topping out provides a wonderous view of this spirit-elevating canyon.
The legendary, Jim Erickson, elevated himself to the challenge of an onsight, solo, first ascent of Blind Faith
on the W face. Today, this remains a crag that holds a special place in the hearts of climbers who have progressed to climb some of the great walls and peaks of the world.
This crag has been a proving grounds for some of Colorado's finest including: Layton Kor, Larry Dalke, Pat Ament, Bob Culp, Stan Shepard, Jim Erickson, Art Higbee, Duncan Ferguson, Kevin Donald, Rob Candelaria, Roger Briggs, David Breashears, Derek Hersey, Ed Webster, Colin Lantz, Chris Archer, among others.
Some of the better routes here include: West Chimney
, 5.7; Hair City
, 5.9 s; West Buttress
, 5.9++; Blind Faith
, 5.10a; Rain
, 5.10d s; Northwest Corner
(see N Face), 5.11a s; Sunset Boulevard
, 5.11b/c; & Your Mother
Note, there is significant amounts of loose rock & flexing flakes on this face.
Descents off the top traverse along an exposed-at-times break/ramp near the top to the N side of the rock and gain a 3rd class ramp down to the Fowler Trail. From here, descend the West Face hiking trail (3rd class near the bottom) back down to the base. A few of the routes have rappel descents, but they are the minority.
Come and climb here, but realize that many share your passion for the experiences found on this stone.
Once you enter Eldorado Canyon State Park, you will hopefully find parking within 200 yards in one of two areas. Park. Walk up the road to the obvious bridge across South Boulder Creek. Look up and left. This is The Bastille. The west face is accessed off a 3rd class trail just around the corner and up the steep slope. Be careful in wet conditions, with little ones and, please, no dogs here.
Weather station 0.2 miles from here
24 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',2],['3 Stars',10],['2 Stars',6],['1 Star',4],['Bomb',1]
Classic Climbing Routes in The Bastille - W Face
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in The Bastille - W Face
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for The Bastille - W Face:
West Arete 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, 2 pitches, 130'
Hair City 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
R Trad, 3 pitches, 310'
Blind Faith 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad, 2 pitches, 200'
Rain 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Neon Lights 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
R Trad, 2 pitches
West Face 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad, 2 pitches, 270'
Stem Gem 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a Trad, 1 pitch
Featured Route For The Bastille - W Face
Hair City 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
: Eldorado Canyon SP
: ... : The Bastille - W Face
I like this route even better than the adjacent and more popular West Buttress. It is steep, not too hard, and on positive holds the whole way. The first pitch has a reputation for being runout; this is only mildly true. The hard moves have good pro, and even the parts that look runout from down below have hidden stopper placements. There are multiple variations to the route above the 2nd bolt. The first pitch is long, has a couple 5.9 moves at the start, and several mor...[more] Browse More Classics in CO
Climbers starting the exit pitch on the West Face ...
Climbers on top of the Bastille. July 3, 2010.
BETA PHOTO: The north and west faces of the Bastille. 5. Werk...