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The Bastille - N Face

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Bastille Crack, The T 
Coach's Demise T,TR 
Cross-country T 
Crossfire T 
Derek-Tissima TR 
Direct North Face T 
DNF 5.10 variation T 
Hairstyles and Attitudes T,S 
Independent Study T 
Inner Space T 
Interceptor T 
Lilliburlero T 
Liquor Mart T 
Madame Guillotine S 
March of Dimes T 
Marie Antoinette T 
Model Citizen T 
Nexus T 
Northcutt Start T,TR 
Northeast Corner T 
Northwest Corner T 
Outer Face T 
Outer Space T 
Prow Finish T 
Saturnalia T 
Shatek's Ramp-age T 
Space T 
Space Invaders T,S 
Spice Tour, The T 
Werk Supp T 
Wide Country T 
Wide Times T 
X-M T 

The Bastille - N Face Rock Climbing 


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Location: 39.9307, -105.283 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 55,023
Administrators: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monomaniac, Monty, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Leo Paik on Jan 1, 2001
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BETA PHOTO: The north and west faces of the Bastille. 5. Werk...

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Description 

A mega-classic rock. The Bastille and, in particular, its North Face, is a cornerstone of climbing in Eldorado Canyon State Park. According to P. Ament in High Over Boulder this was once called Chimney Rock and may have been named The Bastille by Stan Shepard in 1957. This modest, 350 foot crag can be divided into The N face and the W face for organizational purpose. The N face is steep, shaded, and has exceptional routes for intermediate climbers and advanced climbers who seek out the mental challenges in addition to the physical. There are those who count the seconds attempting to set solo speed records here. There is probably little for the lower end difficulty climber nor the high end climber here.

Once, the summit provided an anchor point for the cable upon which crossed Ivy Baldwin on many death-defying crossings of the canyon. Today, the cable remains testament to a disappearing breed of adventurer. Climbing here began at least in the 1950s. There are legends of Frenchmen swilling champagne during an ascent up The Bastille Crack on French Independence Day. Today, this remains a crag that holds a special place in the hearts of climbers who have progressed to climb some of the great walls and peaks of the world.

Amazingly, this face had some early high standard climbing with Stan Shepard and Allen Bergen freeing the upper 4 pitches of the Bastille Crack in 1957; however, the most amazing feat is likely Ray Northcutt's 1959 freeing of the Northcutt Start, 5.10d, after being told, incorrectly, that his competitor, Layton Kor, had just freed it.

This crag has been a proving grounds for some of Colorado's finest including: Layton Kor, Steve Komito, Pat Ament, Larry Dalke, Ray Northcutt, Dudley Chelton, Rob Candelaria, Roger Briggs, Kevin Donald, Jeff Lowe, Charlie Fowler, David Breashears, Duncan Ferguson, Christian Griffith, Mic Fairchild, Derek Hersey, among others.

Some of the finest routes on this face include: The Bastille Crack, 5.7;Werksupp, 5.9+; Outer Space, 5.10c; Northcutt Start, 5.10d (likely Colorado's and possibly the US's first 5.10); X-M, 5.10d s; Northwest Corner, 5.11a s; Wide Country, 5.11a s; The Spice Tour, 5.11 s; & Hairstyles and Attitudes, 5.12c/d.

There are so many variations, linkups that it may be hard to list them all and unmotivating for most to submit these to the database.

Descents off the top traverse along an exposed-at-times break/ramp near the top to the N side of the rock and gain a 3rd class ramp down to the Fowler Trail. From here, descend the West Face hiking trail (3rd class near the bottom) back down to the base. A few of the routes have rappel descents, but they are the minority.

Come and climb here, but realize that many share your passion for the experiences found on this stone.

Getting There 

The most arduous approach in Eldo by far...At least a 1 min. walk from the parking lot to the West.

Once you enter Eldorado Canyon State Park, you will hopefully find parking within 200 yards in one of two areas. Park. Walk uphill to the obvious bridge across South Boulder Creek. Look up and left. This is The Bastille. The N face is accessed off the road. The W face is accessed off a 3rd class trail just around the corner and up the steep slope.

Climbing Season



Weather station 0.2 miles from here

33 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',5],['3 Stars',13],['2 Stars',10],['1 Star',5],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',1],['5.8',2],['5.9',2],['5.10',9],['5.11',16],['5.12',3],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in The Bastille - N Face

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for The Bastille - N Face:
The Bastille Crack   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 5 pitches, 350'   
Werk Supp   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 2 pitches   
Marie Antoinette   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R     Trad, 1 pitch   
Outer Face   5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R     Trad, 1 pitch, 70'   
Outer Space   5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R     Trad, 2 pitches   
March of Dimes   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Trad, 3 pitches   
DNF 5.10 variation   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Trad   
X-M   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R     Trad, 3 pitches   
Northcutt Start   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 60'   
Space Invaders   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R     Trad, Sport, 4 pitches, 70'   
Wide Country   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R     Trad, 2 pitches, 230'   
Direct North Face   5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c R     Trad   
Northwest Corner   5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c     Trad   
Interceptor   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R     Trad, 1 pitch   
Inner Space   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c X     Trad   
Saturnalia   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   
The Spice Tour   5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R     Trad   
Derek-Tissima   5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b X     TR, 1 pitch, 50'   
Madame Guillotine   5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 180'   
Hairstyles and Attitudes   5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch   
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in The Bastille - N Face

Featured Route For The Bastille - N Face
Rock Climbing Photo: The start of the 5.9 approach. The worst pro is th...

Direct North Face 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c CO : Eldorado Canyon SP : ... : The Bastille - N Face
P1: Wide Country. Begin right of the Bastille Crack, at a shallow left-facing corner system. Climb this (5.9) with thin but adequate gear, being mindful of a large semi-detached block 50 feet up. Above this, at a bolt, climb up and left (crux, 5.11a if you have it wired), then back right to an obvious overlap (hand-sized cam) which you turn on the right, then up to the chain anchors at a nice stance (a 60m rope just makes it to the ground). P2: XM to Outer Space. From the belay stance, head ...[more]   Browse More Classics in CO

Photos of The Bastille - N Face Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: © 2013 Ken Cangi, All Rights Reserved.
© 2013 Ken Cangi, All Rights Reserved.
Rock Climbing Photo: View of Bastille from Wind Tower.  Showing Werk Su...
BETA PHOTO: View of Bastille from Wind Tower. Showing Werk Su...
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking across at the North Face. Notice the tiny ...
BETA PHOTO: Looking across at the North Face. Notice the tiny ...
Rock Climbing Photo: On this beautiful day, the Bastille reminded me of...
On this beautiful day, the Bastille reminded me of...
Rock Climbing Photo: Bastille West Buttress
BETA PHOTO: Bastille West Buttress
Rock Climbing Photo: Bastille Wall after ice storm.   © 2015 Ken Cangi...
Bastille Wall after ice storm. © 2015 Ken Cangi...
Rock Climbing Photo: A big, beautiful face.
A big, beautiful face.

Comments on The Bastille - N Face Add Comment
Show which comments
By Chris Dawson
From: Denver, CO
Feb 5, 2002
This is a comment about the marking of the first pitch of Outer Space (#14) in the above photo. The actual route takes the heavily chalked dihedral that is 15 ft. or so right of the one marked in the picture. The only reason I bring this up, is that I have seen people attempting to climb Outer Space who have wandered up this first corner by accident (I believe it's part of Wide Country). So to any of you who are uncertain about how far to traverse from the Bastille Crack to Outer Space, it's not the first corner, but the next one to the right with tons of chalk.
By David Warriner
Aug 13, 2002
I was climbing on Wind Tower on 8/9/2002 and photographed a party on the Bastille on what *appeared* to be Wide Country (my best guess - it was to the right of the Bastille Crack, and within spitting distance of it at the bottom).

I got some great shots of you guys. One was wearing a bright blue jacket, the other a bright yellow/green jacket. If the party who climbed that route reads this, contact me and I will email you the pictures.

-David
By Anonymous Coward
Jun 1, 2003
Don't expect to find bolted anchors at all of the double white spots on the picture above.

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