The Barkeater Cliff Rock Climbing
View from atop the cliff while Lindsay belays Ara ...
According to legend, the Iroquois Indians referred to the Algonquins as "adirondacks", or "barkeaters" because they were forced to live off of bark and buds during the long, harsh winters. It was supposed to be a low-blow to the supposed crude, and not-so useful hunting methods of the Algonquins.
The above description may or may not be true, but it continues to hang around due to how accurately it depicts some of the climbing and many of the approaches in Adirondack park--wild, rudiment, harsh, and long.
Fortunately, The Barkeater Cliff bears only a small resemblance to the above description. Yes, the cliff IS in a remote part of the Adirondacks, but the climbing is very tame, very clean, and ultra manageable. The cliff sits opposite the Sentinel Range, nestled quietly on the backside of Pitchoff Mountain and embodies everything Adirondack climbing is famous for.
For many reasons, this cliff is the perfect place for beginner and moderate climbers; there are plenty of routes in the 5.5 to 5.8 range, the routes are short enough to climb and rappel with one rope, and the gear, for the most part, is impeccable. Classic lines include, Mr. Clean (5.8), Big Bertha (5.6), Fun City (5.7), Yakapodo (5.6+), and Finger It Out (5.10); however, there are plenty of other routes that also deserve to be climbed.
Just uphill from the town of Keene off route 73 is a road named "Alstead Hill Road". There is an obvious sign right before the turn, so you won't miss it. Take this road past the Barkeater Inn and Cross-Country Ski Center, and continue all the way to the end of the road (the road will turns to a maintained dirt about midway down it). Park at the end of the road in the Rock and River parking lot.
Follow the Jackrabbit Trail off the back of the parking lot for about a mile, until you see a cairn on the left side of the trail right past a wide wooden bridge. Follow this path through the woods, across a couple of babbling brooks and uphill for about 15 minutes. You will eventually come to the cliff with the clean, right-facing corner of Mr. Clean in front of you.
Weather station 6.4 miles from here
19 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',7],['2 Stars',11],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',0]
Classic Climbing Routes in The Barkeater Cliff
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in The Barkeater Cliff
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for The Barkeater Cliff:
Mr. Dirty 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
PG13 Trad, 1 pitch, 70'
Yakapodu 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad, 1 pitch, 90'
Fun City 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
ASPCA 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
PG13 Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Mr. Clean 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, 1 pitch, 60'
Overdog 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad, 3 pitches, 150'
Lick It Up 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad, 1 pitch, 65'
Featured Route For The Barkeater Cliff
Rule of the Bone 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b NY
: ... : The Barkeater Cliff
A great climb that offers a little bit of everything with a really good direct variation that provides a sustained quality independent line to the roof.Original: Start as for Mr. Dirty and climb for 30' then traverse right at a crack below the roof to a small left-facing corner in the roof.Direct: Start on top of the obvious large boulder resting at the base of the cliff below a bolt. Work up to the bolt and the finger crack and follow the finger crack to its end and another bolt. ...[more] Browse More Classics in NY
By Daniel Israel
From: Montreal, Quebec
May 23, 2014
So how long is the approach in total, about 25 minutes?