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The Balcony

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Angry Sea Bass S 
Austin Powers, International Man of Mystery S 
Chupacobbler S 
Cobzilla S 
Dr. Evil S 
Evil Medical School S 
Jug-or-Naut S 
Mini Me S 
Mister Bigglesworth S 
Nine Lives S 
Rodent Outhouse S 
Sharks With Friggin' Laser Beams S 

The Balcony Rock Climbing 

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Page Views: 12,080
Administrators: Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB, Marta Reece, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Anthony Stout on Apr 24, 2006


40° | 13°

46° | 17°

48° | 20°

41° | 15°

41° | 17°
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BETA PHOTO: looking at the balcony from the south. you can jus...


A shorter wall now with a good mix of routes on it. Note that many routes have been added since the online guidebook. Routes courtesy of Vaino Kodas! Thanks again. See Vaino's website for a useful photo and updated info.

Getting There 

Find your way to Super Slab, and look up. A large rock balcony, you have found it. Follow a trail that goes to the right, around a large rock, over a stump, and to the wall.

Route Order (From left to right) 

Dr. Evil; 5.10b/c
Evil Medical School; 5.10b
Angry Sea Bass; 5.9
Sharks With Friggin' Laser Beams; 5.9
Austin Powers, International Man of Mystery; 5.9
Cobzilla; 5.8
Chupacobbler; 5.10a
Mister Bigglesworth; 5.10a
Mini Me; 5.9-
Rodent Outhouse; 5.11 b/c (right of the actual balcony formation on another chunk of rock)
Jug-or-Naut; 5.11b (right of the actual balcony formation on another chunk of rock)

Climbing Season

Weather station 4.0 miles from here

12 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',3],['2 Stars',6],['1 Star',3],['Bomb',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in The Balcony

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for The Balcony:
Mini Me   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Sport, 1 pitch, 35'   
Sharks With Friggin' Laser Beams   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   
Chupacobbler   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 40'   
Rodent Outhouse   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Sport, 35'   
Jug-or-Naut   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Sport, 40'   
Nine Lives   5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in The Balcony

Featured Route For The Balcony
Rock Climbing Photo: Brie-Anne on Jug-or-Naught.

Jug-or-Naut 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c  NM : El Rito : ... : The Balcony
Follow the steep jugs up steep overhanging rock. A really nice route, crux is the first half of the route, after that, the grade mellows. Fun movement....[more]   Browse More Classics in NM

Comments on The Balcony Add Comment
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By Jason Halladay
From: Los Alamos, NM
Nov 23, 2008
As of October 2008 there are now two more routes on The Balcony put in by Vaino Kodas and Jen Payne. Angy Sea Bass and Sharks with Friggin' Laser Beams are second and third routes from the left respectively. (The routes would be numbered 02 and 03 using the numbering convention here.)
According to Vaino's website, they are both rated 5.9 but the opinion of a couple friends of mine is that Sharks with Friggin' Laser Beams is a bit tougher. See Vaino's site for more information.
By Bryan T
From: Albuquerque, NM
Sep 10, 2015
Good wall for shorter routes at El Rito, lots of moderates crammed into a small space. Watch out for hornets though, for some reason this wall is particularly active and can make for interesting climbing worrying about jamming your hand into hostile murder.

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