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Animal World
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Aardvark T,TR 
Animal Instinct S 
Animal Magnetism S 
Animal Riots Activist S 
Animation aka Jaycene's Dance S 
Automatic Choke T,TR 
Balance, The T,S 
Beast Food Left S 
Beast Food Right S 
Blame it on a Rush of Blood to the Head T,S 
Blockhead S 
Cannabis Sportiva T,S 
Closer To God S 
Cold Snap T 
Crack Corner T 
Cujo Tranquilizer S 
Days of Future Passed aka Our Future Has Passed S 
Dihedral T,TR 
Evolution Revolution S 
Familiar Strangers T 
Feeding The Beast (aka Beast Food) T,S 
Fifth Destiny, The S 
Fifth World, The T,S 
Free Willie S 
Geritol Generation T,TR 
Global Gorilla S 
Gull Whackers T 
Hands of Destiny S 
Hope and Pray T,S 
Is It Ready Yet...Moe S 
Isn't Life Strange S 
Joint Venture S 
Krakatoa T 
Laurel & Hardy Meet Abbott & Costello S 
Lazy Day S 
Lovely to See You T,S 
Melancholy Man S 
New Beginnings S 
Nice To Be Here S 
Old Dihedral T 
Piles of Trials S 
Pit Bull Prowser S 
Reversal Roof S 
Ride My See-saw S 
Split Personality S 
Strange Times T,S 
Sundog S 
Talking Out Of Turn S 
Threshold Of A Dream S 
Triple Play T 
Tuesday Afternoon S 
Unfamiliar Strangers S 
We Don't Do Crack T 
Wine and Roses T 

The Balance 

YDS: 5.11- French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

Type:  Trad, Sport, 75'
Original:  YDS: 5.11a/b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Bob D & Dan Brockway
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 1,395
Submitted By: Ron Olsen on Mar 14, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (24)
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The crux looks easy in this photo and from the gro...

Seasonal Closure MORE INFO >>>


The crux is getting past the second bolt. Nice face climbing leads to a crack (medium gear) and to the last bolt and the anchors.


On a pillar of rock 40 feet right of Isn't Life Strange


Six clips, green, red and yellow camalots and quickdraws for the ring anchors.

Photos of The Balance Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Above the crux.
Above the crux.
Rock Climbing Photo: Laying off the corner at the crux.
Laying off the corner at the crux.

Comments on The Balance Add Comment
Show which comments
By Kat A
From: Bart and Lisa Ville, CO
May 15, 2008

Helmet recommended for belayer. Rock isn't very clean.
By Jeremy
From: Boulder, CO
Sep 27, 2008
rating: 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c

This route is pretty good. Take gear. Crux is low and kinda one move.
Definitely not a bomb.
By Gold Plated Rocket Pony
From: Boulder, CO
May 9, 2009

You need to commit to the opening moves before you can reach the first bolt. If the first bolt was 6" or 12" lower this would be a much better route. I didn't see any good gear placements just below the first bolt, and it seemed a bit strange to commit with a bad fall potential on what ended up being the crux of the entire route.
By Greg D
From: Here
Apr 4, 2011

There is good gear down and right of the first bolt although not obvious once you do the easy scrambling trying to reach the first bolt. I would agree the first bolt is not well placed. The movement on this route is good once you get into it, although it is a bit licheny since it appears to get little traffic. I placed cams from tips to number 1 Camalot and a few nuts to supplement the bolts. Worth doing if in the area and when it cleans up a bit more.
By slim
Oct 8, 2012
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

Total POS. Poorly bolted (can't clip first bolt from the good stance, even if you are really tall. Ledgefall potential above 2nd bolt on weird bulgy slab, lame traverse into dirty crack (WTF???).

Total pile. If it was bolted better, it would maybe be 1 star, but the moronic bolting totally kills it.

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