The crux is getting past the second bolt. Nice face climbing leads to a crack (medium gear) and to the last bolt and the anchors.
On a pillar of rock 40 feet right of Isn't Life Strange
Six clips, green, red and yellow camalots and quickdraws for the ring anchors.
The crux looks easy in this photo and from the gro...
Above the crux.
|By Kat A|
From: Bart and Lisa Ville, CO
May 15, 2008
Helmet recommended for belayer. Rock isn't very clean.
From: Boulder, CO
Sep 27, 2008
rating: 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ E3 5c
This route is pretty good. Take gear. Crux is low and kinda one move.
Definitely not a bomb.
|By Gold Plated Rocket Pony|
From: Boulder, CO
May 9, 2009
You need to commit to the opening moves before you can reach the first bolt. If the first bolt was 6" or 12" lower this would be a much better route. I didn't see any good gear placements just below the first bolt, and it seemed a bit strange to commit with a bad fall potential on what ended up being the crux of the entire route.
|By Greg D|
Apr 4, 2011
There is good gear down and right of the first bolt although not obvious once you do the easy scrambling trying to reach the first bolt. I would agree the first bolt is not well placed. The movement on this route is good once you get into it, although it is a bit licheny since it appears to get little traffic. I placed cams from tips to number 1 Camalot and a few nuts to supplement the bolts. Worth doing if in the area and when it cleans up a bit more.
Oct 8, 2012
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ E3 5c
Total POS. Poorly bolted (can't clip first bolt from the good stance, even if you are really tall. Ledgefall potential above 2nd bolt on weird bulgy slab, lame traverse into dirty crack (WTF???).
Total pile. If it was bolted better, it would maybe be 1 star, but the moronic bolting totally kills it.