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The Balance of Power 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport
Original:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
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Submitted By: Thailand Climbing on Mar 21, 2011

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Josh focused on the clip on Balance of Power

Warning Stainless-steel bolts are suspect near the coast. A rebolting effort is underway. MORE INFO >>>

Description 

One of the best climbs at the crag. Some great 5.11 climbing leads from the right tufa, across the face on a few generous pockets to a stance on the top of the the left tufa. Make the most of the rest. from the 4th bolt the difficulty increases severely, the technical crux here consists of tiny crimps which you wobble up on a prayer. But you're only halfway, a brief stint of more 5.11 climbing gets increasingly difficult as the climb steepens. One super powerful move then guards the anchor. Not the most technically difficult move on the climb. But may prove the physical crux of the route as it's hard to save energy for.

Location 

Just to the left of the cave in the center of the crag. The climb starts between the two parallel flow stone formations.

Protection 

11 bolts


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