The Balance of Power
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While this climb has good moves, the rock quality really sucks. For the first half of the route every foot and handhold felt crumbly, and the top half has a lot of lichen. However, this has the potential to be a good route if it cleans up some.
Once again pull of the ground with difficulty, using some variety of the slopy "knobs" to get on the wall. Continue up on progressively better holds to a nice rest at the half way point. Rest well as some trickiness awaits passing the next bolt (fifth). Beta alert (it may be possible to skip this section using a lichen covered jug far to the left, that is difficult to see from below) Pull over the bulge and set up for the final steep moves to the anchor. There is a final bolt here that seems out of place and difficult to clip, (the clip would be as harder than making the one more move the anchor) so I skipped it.
Starts about 15 feet right of A Walk in the Park 11c. Second route to the right of Leprosy. 11d is written in chalk at the base.
7 bolts to anchors
|Comments on The Balance of Power
|By Brian Quiter|
From: Oakland, CA
Sep 9, 2008
Yeah the rock is chossy throughout, I bet it will clean up if more people climbed it - I certainly did my share, but the climbing is FUN!!!!
3 stars climbing + 0 stars rock quality = 1.5 stars. I round up because the rock will probably get better with time.
|By Jason Hundhausen|
From: Bozeman, MT
Sep 10, 2008
I agree with Brian, the climbing on this route was really fun, but the rock was very chossy. More traffic may clean it up a bit, or it may just continue to flake off. Certainly more fun and sustained than its neighbor to the left A Walk in the Park
|By George Perkins|
From: Los Alamos, NM
Jul 5, 2009
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- E4 6a
IMO, by now, this climb has cleaned up nicely (but like everything at A37, expect some grit and the outer layer to flake off), and it's excellent climbing- almost as good as Leprosy or any of the other 11s at A37.
The start is not as difficult as the 11+ to its left (A Walk in the Park), and, unlike A Walk.., this climb has better stances and holds to clip from for the first 2 bolts, so I like it more.