The Balance Dyno
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Jay Conway sticks The Balance Dyno
The Balance Dyno is the most unlikely of boulder problems. Start on the left corner of the steepest part of the Lower Wall.
Clamber up onto a ledge and throw a left toe-hook into the big horizontal crack. This should allow you to stand up straight. Then grab a nothing crimp with your left hand, and jump up to a sloping ledge. Hold the considerable outward swing and match the ledge. The crux is getting your feet established on the wall and reaching for a crimp just below the lip.
The dyno is definitely a crowd-pleasing move, but getting established on the face after the dyno is incredibly awkward and maybe a bit height dependent.
Multiple pads and spotters.