The Oregon Badlands Wilderness offers a unique experience of isolated, secluded volcanic basalt climbing in a high desert wilderness setting. Much of the exposed basalt cliffs are the interiors of cracked volcanic pressure ridges, called tumuli, or open labyrinth-like cracks in the ground. The Oregon Badlands Wilderness offers the classic high desert environment, for all that might be loved and loathed for climbing based on the season — dry, sandy, flat expanses of sagebrush and ancient western juniper woodlands atop Columbia River Basalts.
Head East out of Bend on US Highway 20 for about 17 miles. There are two signed turn-offs on your left for the Oregon Badlands Wilderness. The first is for the Flatiron Rock Trail - best for climbing at Flatiron Rock and Castle. The second signed turnoff is for Badlands Rock Trail — best for the climbing at Badlands Rock, Castle, The Drive In and The South Wall. The trails are very flat and wide, but consist of tiring soft sand.
• 2.8 miles along the Badlands Rock Trail to Badlands Rock.
• 3.7 miles along the Badlands Rock Trail to The Drive In and The South Wall.
• It is 2.6 miles along the Flatiron Rock Trail to Flatiron Rock.
• Castle is in the middle of the 1.1 miles Castle Trail that goes between Badlands Rock and Flatiron Rock.
Tricky moves off the ground and then 2/3's of the way up keeps the climbing interesting. Move onto the arete on your right 2/3 of the way up to keep the climbing more moderate, or stay in the middle of the face to tip-toe up small pockets and ledges....[more]Browse More Classics in OR