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 ADVANCED
Spaghetti Western Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Angel Eyes T 
Bad, The S 
Bone Dry T 
Corner Saloon T 
Crack With No Name T 
For A Few Ankles More S 
Giu La Testa S 
Good, The S 
Hanging Tree, The S 
Plain High Drifter T 
Shoot Don't Talk T 
Sorry Shorty S 
Trapdoor T 

The Bad 

YDS: 5.12b/c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: M. Rangel
New Route: Yes
Season: Fall thru Spring
Page Views: 410
Submitted By: Mike on May 16, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4)
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Description 

Follow bolts past edges & slopers up a steep face, with crux at top.

Location 

Start at bolt line on steep face just left of the Angel Eyes crack, about 25' right of For a Few Ankles More.

Protection 

Well bolted.


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By Tavis Ricksecker
From: Bishop, ca
Jul 25, 2007

I felt like the logical thing to do was bust right from the last bolt, palming the sloping arete, and cruise up and left on the arete/lip feature. This made the finish more like 11d. I couldn't pull the harder direct move but it seemed contrived to me, as the easier beta only takes you about 4' off the line of the route.. Hmmm.... Well, the bottom cruxes are aweome too, so whichever way you do this route it's sure to be a winner!
By Hendrixson
Administrator
From: Tucson, AZ
Mar 9, 2014
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

The guidebook lists this as a 5.11b/c. Perhaps the current rating of 5.12b/c is a typo?

One of my favorite lines at Isolation Canyon to date as the rock is stellar and the climbing is sustained. Small rests reduce but never eliminate the pump. The movement is thoughtful, desperate, and varied. Kudos!