The Bad Finger Couloir
|2,362 page views|
|Type: ||Snow, Alpine, 4 pitches, 1000'|
|FA: ||not sure|
|Season: ||spring/ early summer|
|Submitted By: ||Jason Kaplan on Jun 3, 2008|
After the descent.
This is a super aesthetic couloir looker's right of Goldfinger. This is a well-known snow climb apparently published in Roach's 13er book, I only know it as a descent however. Going down the crux was getting over the cornice and into the line then crossing the 2 foot deep by 2 foot wide runnel numerous times as the couloir is pretty narrow for its entire length. I am guessing it clocks in around 55 degrees.
Good timing is imperative on this one as too early going down is dangerous, too late you see why the runnel is there and it's scary.
It is West-Northwest of the Goldfinger.
The usual I would imagine, for going down we used a 60m for getting over the cornice, and some webbing and what not for an equalized, double dead man on some big boulders.
Getting off the ropes and into the commitment!
Reaping the rewards of the exposed entrance. Mind ...
The exposure was crazy!
Nathan at the crux, he didn't manage the runnel ve...
He managed a couple more turns before his tail got...
Taking the fast way down! (he stopped shortly afte...
Nathan reaping the rewards through the bottom!
Entrance/ exit beta also shows the crux.
|Comments on The Bad Finger Couloir
From: colorado springs co
Jun 3, 2009
Nice line, want to take me there?
|By Jason Kaplan|
From: Glenwood ,Co
Jul 23, 2009
Sorry man, there is a voluntary closure in that area the whole time it is in prime condition for riding. Next time we're just going to have to sack up and do it in the winter or early spring befor the closure is in effect. If you or anyone else is interested let me know it will be super hardcore considering the approach and commitment involved. I need a better winter bag for sure before I do that.
Also looking to ride the N. couloir off pacific again but in more winter like conditions next time, I'm thinking around march would be sweet. Always looking for hardcore capable BC ski/board mountaineering partners who are motivated and skilled.