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 ADVANCED
Mt. Evans - mixed, couloirs
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
(Shinzo Abe's) Third Arrow T 
Bad Finger Couloir, The 
Bib (1st Apron), The T 
Black and White T 
Concrete Shoes Won't Help Ya In Da River 
Crystal Couloir 
Diamond Couloir 
Far Right Dihedral (2nd Apron) T 
Goldfinger Couloir 
Iration T 
Lazy Is As Lazy Does T 
Mount Evans Micro Goulotte 
North Face Crag 
North Face Snowfield 
Northwest Couloir T 
Road Less Warren 
Road, The 
Silhouette T 
Snave, The 
Snorkmaiden's Surprise 
Sunrise Couloir T 
Telepherique 
Tike's Trike T 
Unsorted Routes:

The Bad Finger Couloir 

Steep Snow

   
Type:  Snow, Alpine, 4 pitches, 1000'
FA: not sure
Season: spring/ early summer
Page Views: 2,595
Submitted By: Jason Kaplan on Jun 3, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
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After the descent.

Description 

This is a super aesthetic couloir looker's right of Goldfinger. This is a well-known snow climb apparently published in Roach's 13er book, I only know it as a descent however. Going down the crux was getting over the cornice and into the line then crossing the 2 foot deep by 2 foot wide runnel numerous times as the couloir is pretty narrow for its entire length. I am guessing it clocks in around 55 degrees.

Good timing is imperative on this one as too early going down is dangerous, too late you see why the runnel is there and it's scary.


Location 

It is West-Northwest of the Goldfinger.


Protection 

The usual I would imagine, for going down we used a 60m for getting over the cornice, and some webbing and what not for an equalized, double dead man on some big boulders.



Photos of The Bad Finger Couloir Slideshow Add Photo
Getting off the ropes and into the commitment!
Getting off the ropes and into the commitment!
He managed a couple more turns before his tail got sucked into the runnel by the raging river of slough running through it.
He managed a couple more turns before his tail got...
Nathan reaping the rewards through the bottom!
Nathan reaping the rewards through the bottom!
Reaping the rewards of the exposed entrance. Mind the runnel!
Reaping the rewards of the exposed entrance. Mind ...
The exposure was crazy!
The exposure was crazy!
Taking the fast way down! (he stopped shortly after this shot, but it could have been extremely bad.
Taking the fast way down! (he stopped shortly afte...
Nathan at the crux, he didn't manage the runnel very well and....
Nathan at the crux, he didn't manage the runnel ve...
Entrance/ exit beta also shows the crux.
Entrance/ exit beta also shows the crux.
Comments on The Bad Finger Couloir Add Comment
Show which comments
By loc
From: colorado springs co
Jun 3, 2009

Nice line, want to take me there?

By Jason Kaplan
From: Glenwood ,Co
Jul 23, 2009

Sorry man, there is a voluntary closure in that area the whole time it is in prime condition for riding. Next time we're just going to have to sack up and do it in the winter or early spring befor the closure is in effect. If you or anyone else is interested let me know it will be super hardcore considering the approach and commitment involved. I need a better winter bag for sure before I do that.

Also looking to ride the N. couloir off pacific again but in more winter like conditions next time, I'm thinking around march would be sweet. Always looking for hardcore capable BC ski/board mountaineering partners who are motivated and skilled.