The Bad Finger Couloir  Steep Snow

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Type:  Snow, Alpine, 4 pitches, 1000 feet FA:  not sure Season:  spring/ early summer Submitted By:  Jason Kaplan on Jun 3, 2008 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

After the descent.

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Description 

This is a super aesthetic couloir looker's right of Goldfinger. This is a well-known snow climb apparently published in Roach's 13er book, I only know it as a descent however. Going down the crux was getting over the cornice and into the line then crossing the 2 foot deep by 2 foot wide runnel numerous times as the couloir is pretty narrow for its entire length. I am guessing it clocks in around 55 degrees.

Good timing is imperative on this one as too early going down is dangerous, too late you see why the runnel is there and it's scary.

Location 

It is West-Northwest of the Goldfinger.

Protection 

The usual I would imagine, for going down we used a 60m for getting over the cornice, and some webbing and what not for an equalized, double dead man on some big boulders.

Photos of The Bad Finger Couloir Slideshow

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Getting off the ropes and into the commitment!	Reaping the rewards of the exposed entrance. Mind ...	The exposure was crazy!
Nathan at the crux, he didn't manage the runnel ve...	He managed a couple more turns before his tail got...	Taking the fast way down! (he stopped shortly afte...
Nathan reaping the rewards through the bottom!	Entrance/ exit beta also shows the crux.