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White Mountain Cliff
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The Axeman 

YDS: 5.13b French: 8a Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ British: E7 6c

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.13b French: 8a Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ British: E7 6c [details]
FA: Neil Gresham (Oct. 2006)
Page Views: 194
Submitted By: ---- on Feb 18, 2011
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Approach this route with an open mind and no preconcieved notions of what constitutes a quality rock climb and you will probably enjoy it. The route is best described as acrobatic tufa funk. Begin by soloing up through a labyrinth of caves. This may sound strange, but you'll understand what I mean when you see it.

Start by cranking some acrobatic moves on nice pockets through severely overhanging territory. Lead with your feet ahead of your hands until you get yourself into a nice unconventional rest in a large pod. Rest here for as long as you want.

Once rested make your way up to the next ledge. At this point you realize that you need to traverse 15 feet right on the ledge without the aid of positive hand holds. A healthy dose of knee barring will get you through that section. Rest up again for the most physical section of the route.

The next section involves some aggressive tufa pinching. I view it as the crux / funnest part of the route. Pinch those tufas and scream like Sharma as you battle 20 vertical feet to a massive tufa rest and the first set of anchors. Take this last major rest before deciphering reachy 11+ climbing to the upper set of anchors.


This route is on the left side of White Mountain. It starts from a pod 20 feet off the ground. It can be identified by its extreme steepness and the massive tufa at the first set of anchors.


Lots of bolts. Long slings on the first few bolts reduce rope drag.

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