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King on the Throne - West
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Awakening, The T,S 
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The Awakening 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 65'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA:  Reid Dowdle
Page Views: 1,359
Submitted By: Nick Stayner on Jul 29, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (19)
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Let the awakening begin

Description 

Another outstanding City of Rocks mixed line. Predominantly a bit overhanging, this route follows an awesome 5.10ish crack spotted with faceholds to quartz dike & a traverse left to a bolt (crux). Head up the easy slab to a horizontal & build a belay with finger-sized pieces.

Location 

The route is on the west side. Look for the awesome finger crack leading to a quartz dike with a bolt.

Protection 

The crack eats finger-sized gear (TCUs and Stoppers). One bolt. Downclimb third class slab to the main descent chains for King on the Throne.


Photos of The Awakening Slideshow Add Photo
Just after the running/jumping start
Just after the running/jumping start
Wyatt nears the business!
Wyatt nears the business!

Comments on The Awakening Add Comment
Show which comments
By Wavey
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Feb 6, 2007

crux is clipping the bolt. climbing eases above thre bolt. great route with neat features.
By sgreen
From: salt lake city, ut
May 13, 2007
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

Pretty Cool Route. The first move is unusual, like one of those trick boulder problems you try in the gym. I agree that clipping the bolt is tricky, I would say moving past it is the crux.
By Guy H.
From: Fort Collins CO
Jun 14, 2008
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

There are not too many routes that have a jump start followed by a knee bar. This is a very fun route with good gear. If you are tall, the crux moves are over before you clip the bolt.
By Darren O'Connor
Jun 20, 2011
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

I was happy to find that there is good protection all the way up this route (excepting the run-and-jump start). Having seen many climbers hang before getting to the bolt, I was pleasantly surprised to find that the moves to get to the bolt were no harder than the rest of the climb (though I did grab the draw to clip). Over all I'd say this is a very safe climb.
By RKM
From: Alpine, Utah
Nov 25, 2011

This route was popular and climbed for years (at least '76 when we first did it on recommendation for others) without the bolt. It was added in the mid 80's.
By peter heekin
Aug 15, 2013

F.A. Reid Dowdle