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The Asylum

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The Asylum Rock Climbing 


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Administrators: Greg Opland, JJ Schlick, Hendrixson, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: DisturbingThePeace on Jul 7, 2010
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The Asylum - main wall

Description 

This is the Hardperson's area at Jack's canyon. The routes range from bouldery shorter routes to longer more continuous lines. There are very few lines that are easier than 5.11 due to the steep unfeatured nature of the rock. The routes vary from extremely overhung roof style routes to dead vertical thin face climbing routes. Overall there are over 60 established routes with around 15 projects, many of them open.

It is generally known as a winter area as most of the crag faces south, so it catches the AZ sun. However during the summer it does get shade until noon on the Main wall due to the steepness of the rock, allowing a few hours of comfortable climbing during other times of the year.

I've heard that this area is less "created" than some of the other areas of Jack's canyon and the bolts certainly aren't as close together so this crag probably doesn't deserve the bad reputation that the rest of Jack's has, so it might be worth checking out if you've avoided the main parts of Jack's Canyon.

Getting There 

Once going through the gate follow the main road (that heads towards the main Jack's Canyon) for .1 miles and make a left turn onto a rough dirt road. Follow this until you arrive at a water tank. There are three ways to go here, the left and straight option both take you to the Asylum. (The sharp right option takes you towards the parking area for Jack's Canyon). The left road seems slightly smoother but more likely to be muddy than the straight road. After approximately 2 miles from the entrance gate off of 87 you will see and obvious parking area on your right. The trail starts out of the back right corner. The road isn't too rough but some clearance would be nice, it might be passible in a low clearance vehicle but you will probably scrape alot. If it's muddy all bet's are off.

Walls 

Joe's Grotto: Short hard powerful routes, furthest leftmost wall at the Asylum.
Upper Tier Left: Again Short hard powerful routes, from Joe's grotto scramble up to the first ledge and walk around right on the shelf.
Left End 2nd Tier: From the "Upper Tier Left" navigate across the chasm to the shelf above the left side of "Main Wall".
Main Wall: The money wall taller routes on gorgeous limestone.
Right End 2nd Tier: Scramble up on the far right side of "Main Wall" to the shelf above the Right side of "Main Wall"
Right Wall: Furthest rightmost wall, easier routes from 5.5 to 5.11c are located here.

Resources: 

Guidebook: "Jack's Canyon Sport Climbing" jackscanyon.com/content/guideb...

Dr. Topo: drtopo.com/submitted/asylum.pd...

Climbing Season

For the *Jacks Canyon area.

Weather station 10.0 miles from here

9 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',6],['2 Stars',2],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',0],['5.9',0],['5.10',2],['5.11',2],['5.12',4],['5.13',1],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in The Asylum

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for The Asylum:
Bloody Bones   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 60'   Main Wall
Evil Party Vortex   5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c     Sport, 1 pitch, 65'   Main Wall
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in The Asylum

Featured Route For The Asylum
Rock Climbing Photo: Katch warming up

Bloody Bones 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a  AZ : Northern Arizona : ... : Main Wall
This is the obvious thin crack that starts up the center of Main Wall and ends at the anchors shared with "Psycho Friends". A bouldery start past the first few bolts leads to a good hold and the third bolt. From here technical climbing on fingerlocks and the occasional face hold leads up to the roof above. Pull the roof on good holds and crank up to the lip to clip the anchors....[more]   Browse More Classics in AZ

Photos of The Asylum Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Asylum.  Lower left is Joe's Grotto, middle is Upp...
BETA PHOTO: Asylum. Lower left is Joe's Grotto, middle is Upp...

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