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Redgarden - Tower One
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The Art Of Slappiness 

YDS: 5.13b French: 8a Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ British: E7 6c

Type: Sport, 1 pitch, 45'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.13b French: 8a Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ British: E7 6c [details]
FA: FFA: Chris Weidner 10/03/07
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 1,495
Submitted By: Chris Weidner on Oct 16, 2007
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  • Description 

    The Art Of Slappiness ascends the overhanging arete left of Vertigo's second pitch. This short and powerful feature was bolted by Dan Michael (and named Nervous In Suburbia) but abandoned as an open project. From the belay ledge below the 11b corner of Vertigo, step left until directly beneath the exposed edge. Launch upward, protected by a small cam, an old pin and a bolt, and enjoy a slaphappy boulder problem (with one more bolt) that leads to a good rest. Clip the last bolt, float up the harder-than-they-look final moves, and belly flop onto the belay ledge with three bolts.


    Approach The Art Of Slappiness by climbing the first long (two short pitches in the book) 5.9 pitch of Vertigo to a bolted belay ledge.


    Place a small cam (#1 or #2 TCU) at the base of Vertigo's corner for your first piece. Bring one more small cam (#0 or #1 TCU) to protect the first hard moves, then clip a fixed pin and three bolts en route to the anchor. The bolted anchor is placed far back on the flat ledge atop this pitch. You will need very long runners in order to use it for lowering and/or toproping without debilitating rope drag.

    Comments on The Art Of Slappiness Add Comment
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    By Chris Archer
    Oct 16, 2007

    Very cool! Great job, Chris!

    By Bob Rotert
    Feb 18, 2008

    Congratulations Chris! This has been waiting a long time to be completed.. Nice Work!!

    By Hank Caylor
    From: Golden, CO
    Feb 18, 2008

    Agreed, way to steal one from the Canyon Chris. I've been looking at that thing (while it mocked me) for years.