The Art of Dreaming 

Interesting climbing for the first four bolts. Getting past the second bolt is a bit snappy. Moving right might be reachy for some people. A gem at 12a. Keep up the good work.

12a, you're joking A.C. The traverse after the third bolt and getting to the good holds under the roof is highly technical and merits a solid 12 b/c rating. The roof is 12a, and above is very easy. Anyway, I agree it's a great climb, especially now that it's cleaner due to the some climbing traffic.

I'd second ac's assessment of the route's high-quality and 12a rating.

Surprisingly good. The route climbs much better than it looks. The crux is height /reach related, which may explain the differing opinions on the grade. For my size 5'8" & 0 A.I. it's 12b to the rest, followed by a fun 11a/b roof and a romp to the anchors.

Did this route on Sunday. If you can get to the rest, the upper section is easy. At 5'7" (8") on a good day, height initially felt like a factor however, I sent the route on my second try. In contrast, I have had to work (4-8 attemps) several 12b's and 12c's outside of Boulder Canyon.

I wasn't that impressed with this route, given the hype I had heard about it. Lacks an independent start, crumbly/flaky rock for the feet during the crux, the bolts through the crux are located to make the clips as awkward as possible, greasy unpleasant climbing, lowering and retrieving the draws is a pain, etc. Definitely glad to not have to do this one again.

Hard to grade as the crux is just greasy. Probably 12a during cool dry conditions but really gropy when warm and humid. The roof probably isn't even 11a (not sure how it gets described as 12a, the holds are huge and the feet are good). Mostly easy filler climbing above, which is ironically probably the best part.