|Type:||Trad, 1 pitch, 55'|
|Original:||YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]|
|FA:||Jonathan Garlough & Joshua Corbett|
|Submitted By:||chinos on Jun 11, 2012|
|Comments on The Arete||Add Comment|
|Show which comments —
By lee hansche
From: goffstown, nh
Jul 5, 2012
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
|the 1st pitch is a bit less classic but the money pitch is MONEY! great classic trad climbing! big roof, big corner, splitter cracks, exposure and an amazing view... i really want to come back and shoot photos of it :)|
From: Hooksett, New Hampshire
Apr 20, 2014
The second pitch is one of the best pitches of trad I've ever done. Amazing climbing, very good protection (albeit thoughtful under the roof), committing moves, exposure, beautiful views on an aesthetic route... does it get better?
The first pitch (shared with Layback Route) was also quite fun, and the 5.8 3rd pitch was very good too. Very good protection throughout. Get on it!
I suggest walking off right or rapping a different route. Another party tried rapping with two 60m ropes and weren't confident that they would reach the ground in one rap, so they had to do a second one. The anchor at the top of P1 is 3 pins, so you will not be able to rap from that station unless you want to leave gear. I'm guessing two 70's would make it from the top, but don't take my word for it.
A single rope decent with a 60m would be 3 raps and you would have to do a mini-pitch, or an on-rappell traverse from the pin anchor over to the right to rap off the thread anchor of the adjacent route for your final rap.
Plus, I'm sure someone working out the roof traverse would not appreciate someone rapping down. I say, just avoid it.
Jul 12, 2014
|Great route. You can easily hit the ground with a single 60m from the top of the second pitch.|
By Alexander Smith
Oct 26, 2014
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
|5.9? Really? Have you ever climbed a conway 5.9? I didn't think this deserved a 5.8+ rating. I would say just a 5.8 sorry guys :)|
From: Morro Bay, CA
Aug 2, 2015
Pitch 2 has to be in the running for one of the best pitches on the cliff.
If you protect the start of the traverse be wary of rope drag. Bring a #3 BD cam for the exit of the traverse.