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There are only two routes on the arete. A 15' route called 'South Arete' which will get you on top of the spire, and 'Raven' on the backside. The guide book mentions a fixed piton for the short route, which as of summer 2010 is no longer there. You can see the scar where it used to be. This makes accessing the top anchors for 'Raven' a bit sketchy. The only way up is a V2ish boulder problem with a small (6 sq.ft.) stressful landing on the saddle, or the route (5.7) which follows the right arete, however, now unprotected. A misstep would leave you falling down the cliff edge. You can access the Raven by a longer difficult approach down the gully between The Arete and Main Street.
The Arete is to the left of Main Street as you come out at the end of the trail to the top of the spires. Follow the trail left as it drops down and into a saddle with a small spire attached.
1 Total Routes
Browse More Classics in The Arete
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for The Arete:
Raven 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a Sport, 1 pitch, 100'
Featured Route For The Arete
A long, amazingly consistent face climb of 10a moves all the way to the top. If you like the grade it's not to be missed, but the repetitive moves also get boring. The crux is gaining access to the arete right off the belay ledge....[more] Browse More Classics in OR
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