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The Arete-Acal 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Sport, 90'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Original Route: Brent & Nora Kertzman (1994) Extension: Andy Fitz & Tuck Russell (2011)
Page Views: 256
Submitted By: andyf on Apr 25, 2011
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The Arete-Acal
Seasonal Raptor Closure MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This route used to end on a tiny ledge below a menacing block. Then the block found its way to the ground, clearing the way for the route to go full length.

Scamper up the crack to the right and stretch over to pre-clip the first bolt. Back on the ground, start directly under the roof at the bottom of the arete. The hardest crux is still getting past the first bolt, but the extension adds a second crux where the big block used to sit. In between is some fun technical edging and arete pulling. The route ends on a mini-freestanding summit; for a total alpine experience, balance up and raise your arms in victory.


Protection 

12 bolts. Step across to anchor bolts about ten feet above and behind the summit. A 60 meter rope reaches the ground.



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Hutch leading The Arete Acal
Hutch leading The Arete Acal
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By andyf
From: Tacoma, WA
Apr 25, 2011

As of 4/25/11, the anchor bolts still need chains. You can rap from draws (retrievable from another climb) or walk off to another anchor.

By belowfellow
3 days ago

super smeary on the arete, great jugs on the upper pillar. fun climb.