The Arch of Titus 5.7+
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| Type: | Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 140 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.8 [details] |
| FA: | Bernard Gillett |
| Submitted By: | Orphaned on Jul 31, 2010 |
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Description This is a very high quality route in terms of rock quality and movement, and it's a nice long pitch. The "5.7+" rating is from the first ascentionist. I would call this climb solid 5.8. Once this route cleans up, it will rival quality mixed routes up and down the Front Range.
Climb the starting slab past two bolts, then pull the easy roof on the left. Continue up a thin crack to a rest, make one tenuous move and clip the next bolt as you smear left towards another quality crack. More crack and face moves above, then clip a last bolt on your way to the two bolt anchor.
We used a 70m rope and a single rap to get off this climb, but a 70m will not get you all the way back to the start.
This is a great pitch that's full value for the grade.
Location This is on the left side of the crag. It is the longest visible line. Look for two bolts directly above two toothy flakes jutting upwards.
Protection A standard rack with emphasis on smaller stuff.
| Comments on The Arch of Titus |
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By Kevin Wieczorek
Sep 3, 2011
rating: 5.7+
| Rope soloed this today using a small tree at the base and a clove hitch on the draw on the first bolt for the bottom anchor. I would say the suggestion for a standard rack is off. Gillett suggest up to a number 2 Camalot, I have no idea where you would place this. I had one bomber 0.75 in a pod, otherwise it was all RPs and small C3s (sizes 00, 0, and 1). Bring only small gear and maybe double up on 00s and 0s if you want to sew it up. Overall it was fun, but a little mossy in spots. |
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